[Elecraft] K1 160m/80m

Dave Sublette k4to at arrl.net
Tue Jan 31 12:44:41 EST 2006 

Sandy,

What antenna did you use on 160?  It must have beeen pretty good to have 
worked that many stations.  I ran 100W(TenTec Omni VI+) for the contest 
and worked 397 Qs and 80 multipliers, many of which were DX. But my 
antenna is a full quarterwave elevated groundplane.   I have found that 
on the contest nights I have to screw the filtering down to 250 hz and 
put a 20 db pad in the front end.  In addition, I turn off the AGC and 
back the RF gain down.  It was actually quite pleasant to work the 
contest in this way. I have no special receiving antennas....just use 
the vertical on TX and RX.

73,

Dave, K4TO

Sandy W5TVW wrote:
> That's what I did is make a 160/80 meter board.  Had a ton of fun
> over the weekend on 160.  Managed to work almost 150 QSO's with only
> 8 hours operating time.  Used the K1 and 5 watts out.  Worked 38 USA/Canada
> sections and two DX QSO's.  Heard lots of DX but really hammering QRM
> for this power level!
> Too bad the band isn't populated most nights!  This demonstrates that 160
> is VERY viable band that is very neglected the rest of the year!
>
> 73,
> Sandy W5TVW
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <w3fpr at earthlink.net>
> To: "SteveG" <s2ranch at gmail.com>; <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:08 AM
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m
>
>
> | Steve,
> | 
> | Putting a K1 on 160 can be done easily (see instructions below for one
> | method).  Not too much effort.
> | The KAT1 will tune OK, but the range will not be as great as on higher
> | bands.
> | In my opinion, it is a pain to have 2 40 meter boards and keep track of
> | which is what.  Note that the K1 will remember 6 bands, so a 4 band board
> | for 40 and up plus a 2 band board for 160 and 80 makes sense to me.
> | 
> | ADDING 160 meters to a K1:
> | 
> | > Not quite a full "Elecraft" 160m & 80m board, but you can do it this way -
> | > order a 2 band board for 80m and any other band, PLUS, order the following
> | > components (Elecraft has them all except the crystal) - here are the
> | > instructions for how I did it: --
> | > maybe you can make a deal with someone at Elecraft to ship a ''1 band
> | board
> | > and the other needed parts"
> | >
> | > I ordered the following from Elecraft:
> | >
> | > Capacitors:
> | > 2 - E530002  1500 pf capacitor
> | > 3 - E530003  2700 pf capacitor
> | > 2 - E530005  1200 pf capacitor
> | > 2 - E530035  1800 pf capacitor
> | > 2 - E530052   560 pf capacitor
> | > 2 - E530053   680 pf capacitor
> | > 1 - E530058    12 pf capacitor
> | >
> | > Inductors:
> | > 1 - E690007   33 uh inductor
> | > 2 - E690001  4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot)
> | >
> | > Toroid cores:
> | > 2 - E680001  T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color)
> | >
> | > I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance)
> | from
> | > International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com.
> | >
> | > If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also
> | order
> | > the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft.
> | >
> | > The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the
> | > crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO.
> | >
> | > I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2
> | > locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were
> | left
> | > empty at this time.
> | >
> | > Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire)
> | on
> | > the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions.
> | >
> | > The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and
> | L6.
> | > On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 and
> | > L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins).
> | >
> | > The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13.  Form the leads
> | > under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my inductor
> | > is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans.
> | >
> | > Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding wire
> | > to the side of the can (or top if you prefer).
> | >
> | > The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions:
> | > C1 & C5 - 680 pf
> | > C2 & C4 - 2700 pf
> | > C3           - 12 pf
> | >
> | > C11 & C15 - 1800 pf
> | > C12 & C14 - 560 pf
> | > C21 & C23 - 1500 pf
> | > C22            - 2700 pf
> | >
> | > You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2
> | > band board following the instructions in the K1 manual.  Mine came up with
> | > no trouble at all.
> | 
> | 73,
> | Don W3FPR
> | 
> | > -----Original Message-----
> | > From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> | > [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of SteveG
> | > Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:11 AM
> | > To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> | > Subject: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m
> | >
> | >
> | > Hi Folks, I've a couple of spare FIL-2 revD boards that I want to
> | > reload for
> | > fun. Put one on 40/80 and the other on 80m/160m(?).
> | >
> | > Here's my Qs:
> | > 1. Will the ATU handle 80m? ...and what about 160M? assuming I'm
> | > not trying
> | > to load a 'coat hanger' on 160!
> | > 2. Where can I get the info on putting K1 FIL 2 on 160m ? is it worht the
> | > effort?
> | > 3. My FIL-4 aready has 40m if I do a FIL-2 on 40/80 is it a pain to recal
> | > for the band/board swap?
> | > 4. So when iis the KX1 30/80 brd gonna debut??? I would love to fill those
> | > long cold winter eves with few KX1-QSOs durning my snow cave adventures.
> | > Steve/n0tu (in digest mode)
> | >
> | 
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