[Elecraft] K1 160m/80m

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

Putting a K1 on 160 can be done easily (see instructions below for one
method).  Not too much effort.
The KAT1 will tune OK, but the range will not be as great as on higher
bands.
In my opinion, it is a pain to have 2 40 meter boards and keep track of
which is what.  Note that the K1 will remember 6 bands, so a 4 band board
for 40 and up plus a 2 band board for 160 and 80 makes sense to me.

ADDING 160 meters to a K1:

> Not quite a full "Elecraft" 160m & 80m board, but you can do it this way -
> order a 2 band board for 80m and any other band, PLUS, order the following
> components (Elecraft has them all except the crystal) - here are the
> instructions for how I did it: --
> maybe you can make a deal with someone at Elecraft to ship a ''1 band
board
> and the other needed parts"
>
> I ordered the following from Elecraft:
>
> Capacitors:
> 2 - E530002  1500 pf capacitor
> 3 - E530003  2700 pf capacitor
> 2 - E530005  1200 pf capacitor
> 2 - E530035  1800 pf capacitor
> 2 - E530052   560 pf capacitor
> 2 - E530053   680 pf capacitor
> 1 - E530058    12 pf capacitor
>
> Inductors:
> 1 - E690007   33 uh inductor
> 2 - E690001  4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot)
>
> Toroid cores:
> 2 - E680001  T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color)
>
> I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance)
from
> International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com.
>
> If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also
order
> the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft.
>
> The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the
> crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO.
>
> I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2
> locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were
left
> empty at this time.
>
> Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire)
on
> the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions.
>
> The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and
L6.
> On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 and
> L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins).
>
> The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13.  Form the leads
> under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my inductor
> is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans.
>
> Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding wire
> to the side of the can (or top if you prefer).
>
> The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions:
> C1 & C5 - 680 pf
> C2 & C4 - 2700 pf
> C3           - 12 pf
>
> C11 & C15 - 1800 pf
> C12 & C14 - 560 pf
> C21 & C23 - 1500 pf
> C22            - 2700 pf
>
> You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2
> band board following the instructions in the K1 manual.  Mine came up with
> no trouble at all.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of SteveG
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:11 AM
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m
>
>
> Hi Folks, I've a couple of spare FIL-2 revD boards that I want to
> reload for
> fun. Put one on 40/80 and the other on 80m/160m(?).
>
> Here's my Qs:
> 1. Will the ATU handle 80m? ...and what about 160M? assuming I'm
> not trying
> to load a 'coat hanger' on 160!
> 2. Where can I get the info on putting K1 FIL 2 on 160m ? is it worht the
> effort?
> 3. My FIL-4 aready has 40m if I do a FIL-2 on 40/80 is it a pain to recal
> for the band/board swap?
> 4. So when iis the KX1 30/80 brd gonna debut??? I would love to fill those
> long cold winter eves with few KX1-QSOs durning my snow cave adventures.
> Steve/n0tu (in digest mode)
>