[Elecraft] OT solder pot

[Jim Wiley]

I run a Goot model 22C solder pot (small, about 1/2 lb capacity) - and 
do not use fluxed solder at all!  I use plain bar solder (available from 
Mouser and others) cut up into pot-sized chunks, adding more when needed 
(infrequently).  I use a liquid or paste flux with the item to be 
tinned.   Such fluxes are similarly available fro Mouser and others. .  
The liquid "paints" on  with a little brush, the paste I just stick the 
wire or terminal into, enough adheres to do the job.


I scrape the dross (oxidized solder and flux residue) from the surface 
of the solder bath as needed.  I manufactured the scrapers by cutting 
strips of  0.010" stainless steel shim stock from a roll.  Each scraper 
is about 1/2" wide and 6" long.  The length allows you to scrape the 
dross before the heat transfers to your fingers.  The solder won't stick 
to the stainless, so just scrape the dross off the tool with your 
fingernail or a utility knife when it has cooled.


I use the pot  for tinning toroid leads, connector pins before 
installing them,  stripped coaxial cables before installing them into 
connectors (mostly RG/8 into PL-259 fittings), large diameter wires 
before attempting to join them to switches and terminals, and other 
similar applications.    


I keep the temperature set to about 800 degrees F, which seems to work 
well.   Don't leave small diameter wires in the solder too long, they 
will literally dissolve into the  molten solder.  I second is about all 
you need for bare wire, or if using heat-strippable insulation, I plunge 
the wire in until the insulation disappears in a puff  of  smoke, and 
remove the freshly tinned wire immediately thereafter.    A little 
practice is all it takes, and you will be pleased with the results.  
Using the paste or liquid flux is essential for a quick and clean job.  
Most freshly stripped wire will tin without flux, but not as quickly or 
as well. Obviously, you won't need flux on heat-strippable insulated wire


Similar solder pots are often found on the Internet.  Try a Google 
search for "Solder Pot"  and "GOOT" .   I have seen them available on 
discount for as little as $100.00.  The price is high for one use, but 
not bad at all if you use it for lots of jobs.


Good luck!


- Jim, KL7CC


arm at uniontel.net wrote:

>Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder 
>pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the 
>solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and 
>debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much 
>flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on 
>the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be 
>removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, 
>this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything 
>much less and it won't tin properly.
> 
>Thanks -- Rick
>
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