[Elecraft] KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

[Don Wilhelm]

Mark and folks,

IF one is familiar with the KX1 basic circuits AND the KXB3080 circuits, AND
IF one has very cood and methodical troubleshooting techniques if something
goes wrong, AND IF you can integrate two sets of instructions, AND IF you
have a VERY high confidence in your ability to properly follow all the
instructions correctly the FIRST time through AND to work without error -
then by all means, add the KXB3080 option at the same time as the initial
KX1 build.

BUT --- if you are lacking in ANY ONE of the above criteria, I recommend
highly that you complete and test the basic KX1 before tackling the KXB3080
(the KXB3080 LPF board requires a lot of care and is where many builders
have trouble).  Yes, there is one thing that you can do to save removing one
component - put L6 on the back side of the board when assembling the base
KX1.

Be aware that the base KX1 cannot be properly tested independently withe the
KXB3080 parts installed and you may not know where the failure has occurred
should something not work in the end. To make matters worse, the KXB3080
board covers a number of base KX1 components and solder connections, and
should a problem in the base KX1 be discovered, you may have to remove the
KXB3080 just to troubleshoot the base KX1.

Yes, I routinely build up the KX1 and the KXB3080 together myself, but then
I have built many of them.  I did not attempt that feat until the 5th one
that I had built - there is just too much that can go wrong - even things
that are easily corrected in the base KX1 become complex to repair if the
combination is all in place.

It is true that things are very tight for de-soldering - after all, this is
a small handheld transceiver, and even a Hakko 808 with the standard tip
will not reach them all, you need the long slender tip.  Instead of worrying
about the de-soldering, just plan to destroy the components when removing
them - remove the legs one at a time (all components to be removed have only
2 legs) and clean out the hole with careflully positioned solder wick or
just push a stainless steel needle into the hole while heating it.  Work
very carefully and be certain you know exactly where all parts of the
soldering iron are positioned at all times - it is easy to melt a relay or
other components while working in those tight quarters.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Okay, so I got a KX1, KXB3080 & KXAT1 for Christmas from my XYL
> (first time she has ever bought me anything for the hobby,
> YEAH!).  A couple of  years ago I built my K2 with all
> accessories and haven't really had any issues.  I had
> preinstalled some of the components in the K2 to make things
> easier when it came time to install the other modules later, and
> I'm glad I did.  So far we have two differences of opinion on the
> subject with the KX1.  Is there any particular reason others see
> for doing it one way or the other?  Obviously, following the
> directions explicitly is a sure fire recipe toward success,
> although problems can still occur.  I just don't really see the
> need to be so explicit if there are some smart things that can be
> done to make future planned (short term) upgrades easier.  I
> think that as long as the modifications in the assembly do not
> result in different results when attempting to do alignment or
> testing then it should not matter.
>
> Mark, NK8Q
>
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