[Elecraft] Why Lead Free? (WAS: Solder requests - STOP)

[Nick Waterman]

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:
> de-soldering that stuff is no fun - even with my Hakko 808.  Sure the solder

Eeek.

> PS - I truly believe the original statement that "60/40 doesn't exist" was a
> tongue-in-cheek remark.  Jack has that 'funny' way with words sometimes, and
> I for one appreciate the humor.  I certainly hope it didn't cause any undue
> concerns.

It was me who said "doesn't officially exist". I'll admit I was looking 
at one (very well known) UK hobby electronics supplier, and they have no 
leaded solder any more. Looking at the other main UK supplier, they DO 
still sell leaded Multicore and Alpha Fry, alongside lead-free from the 
same manufacturers, but they make it quite clear that the leaded solder 
is "Not RoHS compliant!" and is being phased out.

   http://www.rohsdirective.com/

In my original solder email, I said something like "I thought it was 
just an EU thing, didn't realise it was going out of fashion your side 
of the pond too". RoHS is an EU thing, and it looks like "products using 
non-compliant components onto the EU market after 1st July 2006 will be 
in breach of both UK and European law" so most people seem to HAVE 
already, or BE already phasing it out. I still don't know if there's YET 
a similar thing in the US or not.

"Anybody producing products that are not compliant with ROHS and who 
then attempts to sell then on the EU market after the compliance 
deadline, will be in breach of the EU ROHS Directive", so selling kits 
without solder is PROBABLY fine as long as there's no lead/cadmium/etc 
in any of the other components (maybe that's a foolish assumption?)

Ron said:
> Finally, all the lead-free solders I know of require somewhat higher iron
> temperatures than leaded solder.

 From what I've read, they vary. Some of the more expensive alloys have 
far LOWER melting point, but tend to cost more, apparently wet badly, 
and traditional fluxes don't activate at those temperatures, so they 
need special fluxes too. If you're not careful, your hotter components 
can also desolder themselves   :-)

There's quite a wide choice of lead-free alternatives, presumably each 
with their pros and cons, which is why I was seeking advice.  :-/

I guess what worries me... sooner or later, all of us Elecrafters in EU 
and possibly the rest of the world are going to need something that's:

1) Lead-free (well, yeah, and mercury, cadmium, and the rest of RoHS)
2) Easy enough to work with, and indeed desolder, and rework with
3) Doesn't fry components with too high a heat
4) Lasts... and perhaps most importantly
5) Is covered by Elecraft's limited warranty (fluxes, solvents, blah)

Advice from on point 5 particularly appreciated, most of the rest we've 
covered. What do Elecraft themselves (and "Dr Solder") recommend if (and 
when) lead isn't an option?

Nigel G8IFF said:
> You go buy lead free solder, preferably silver loaded, and start using it.
> No changes needed to your normal soldering methods.

... and being a G, I'm going to hope he knows what he's talking about   :-)

Cheers all!

-- 
"Nosey" Nick Waterman, Senior Sysadmin.
#include <stddisclaimer>    sig at noseynick.net
Running a business is about 95% people and 5% economics.