[Elecraft] Removing relays and other components

[Chris]

Yep - I was relying on Elecraft not asking for the faulty relay back!! 
(in one piece!) Even getting the pliers on K8 alongside the 160Rx socket 
and with an L on each side isn't easy.

Chris VP8BKF

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:

>Folks,
>
>The except below brings up an important point that has not been discussed in
>a while and may need to be repeated occasionally - REMOVING COMPONENTS -
>especially from thru-plated hole PC boards.  As tempting as it is to try to
>remove a component intact, don't try it unless you have good de-soldering
>equipment. Your primary goal is to protect and preserve the circuit board -
>you have put a lot of work into it, and the total value of the good
>components already installed is quite high - if you hurt the board badly,
>you may have to start over from scratch again.
>
>The best way to remove components is to destroy the component - if it is
>already dead, you will not kill it any more!  Clip its leads off, cut it
>apart slowly with your diagonal cutters (not the flush trimmers - most are
>too flimsy), or crush its little body with big pliers - any method that will
>not destroy the board is acceptable.
>
>After you complete your mini-demolition project, the pins can be removed
>individually and the holes can be cleaned with de-soldering braid, inserting
>a large stainless steel needle into the molten solder, or a variety of other
>methods.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>  
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>Subject: [Elecraft] K2 #4768 is alive
>>
>>
>>K2 #4768 lives!
>>
>>Finished the Tx section Saturday night. Only problem was a faulty relay
>>(K8) which was refusing to change over so 80m was deaf and had 0 power
>>output. Got around the problem by substituting one from my K160Rx.
>>Tricky things to get out from those plated through holes when you can
>>only get at one side of the board!
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
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