[Elecraft] Interpreting Color Codes

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm w3fpr at earthlink.net
Wed Jan 26 12:13:52 EST 2005


Folks,

Part of the blame for color confusion lies with the part manufacturer.  I 
have many older resistors in my junkbox and the color bands are bright and 
clear - these older color bands are saturated colors and easy to read at a 
glance under most any lighting condition, so I know it is not my eyes 
getting dim!!!.  Unfortunately though, I don't forsee the situation getting 
any better since the component manufacturers primary market is to production 
lines using automatic insertion devices, and for that market, any reasonable 
marking will do the job, even if it is not 'people readable'.  Bearing 
witness to this fact is the unmarked SMD capacitors.  We folks who have to 
read the values manually have to take 'second seat' (or maybe even the rear 
seat).

The best tool I have found for myself is a small lighted handheld magnifier 
with fresh batteries - you can buy these for less than $5 at places like 
Wal-Mart, Target, local drugstore, etc.  I use it for viewing the 'fine 
print' on capacitors as well, and the only color I have trouble with is 
violet and occasionally red/orange because many of the red pigments are not 
well saturated, they are more 'bright orange' than an actual red - yes my 
wife concurs and she has a keen color eye.

73,
Don W3FPR

----- Original Message ----- 


> After having built a K2, KX1 and numerous other homebrew gear, I have 
> noted
> by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to 
> exactly
> what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF
> chokes.
>
> Having been in the printing business for some years, I can say that  color
> perception is often skewed by the light used for viewing. Incandescent
> lighting
> seems to be the least accurate for determining the correct colors,
> particularly
> yellows, oranges, and browns. Many times I have used sunlight (if 
> available)
> or sought out a fluorescent lamp (cool white with at least 5200K 
> temperature)
> to properly interpret colors. When in doubt, I use a meter to confirm  the
> value.
>




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