[Elecraft] Fixing the Autek VA1 (an RF construction lesson?)

[Robert Cochrane]

Apologies if this thread has gone on too long.

Don Brown has pointed owners in the right direction if they have a poor 
quality Autek instrument.  Mine came from the bottom of the low quality pit 
so it may be worth setting out the fix in a bit more detail.  It also 
taught me a lot about RF physical & mechanical construction needs.

Most of the problems were caused by a combination of poor solder joints and 
badly secured switches and tuning caps, pots etc.  I think the very 
unstable readings were mainly due to poor mechanical stability resulting in 
varying stray capacities.

All this is at owners risk of course, but it cost me less hassle than going 
back to Autek from the UK.  Nothing harder than fixing a K2.  Just take it 
slowly.

Remove the battery
Remove the two tuning knobs
Turn over, and unscrew the two case screws in deep recesses
Ease the two case halves apart GENTLY - there are two boards with a 
multi-pin connector.
Remove the two (or three!) retaining screws on the upper board with the LCD 
display.
Avert your eyes from the interior of the top of the case, which appeared to 
have been carved to fit by a ten year old using a hot soldering 
iron.  Ugly, but not the problem.
Don't remove the lower board unless the basic fix does not solve the 
problems.  More difficult as it is connected to the output socket and my 
bottom board was much better than the top one.
Check the top of the bottom board for poor joints and also unsoldered 
component lugs, using an eye glass.
Check both sides of the top board the same way.
With a small tip on a temperature controlled iron, a wrist strap and GREAT 
CARE, resolder any poor joints.
Solder any unsoldered locating lugs on pots, switches and variable caps 
etc  Mine had lots of these - some switches were hanging on by a 
corner.  Be careful near the LCD.
Check again, particularly for solder bridges etc and clean up with solder 
braid.
Reassemble (reverse of disassembly).

Tighten all screws carefully but firmly by hand to give maximum mechanical 
stability (the case is not really stiff enough).

Such a shame that such a neat piece of kit was so badly constructed.

Wayne - as others have suggested, is there a niche for an Elecraft 
miniature 0-30 MHz amateur bands aerial analyzer with good mechanical 
design, more digits and perhaps a few extras like a minimum SWR frequency 
search and value?  Must give signed reactance, of course.

Could be a kit, but I guess it would need a board with some SMD chips 
pre-soldered.

Rob M0RAC