[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft digest, Vol 4 #487 - 64 msgs

[wa2dkg@juno.com]

I've been using the Weller WTCTP for over 25 years...I'm 73 and have been
soldering since my teens, everything from commutators in 10K generators
sets to circuit boards for the LEM...Tip changing is a non-issue, I have
never had to change from the 700 degree tip...The temperature sensing
device is right in the tip, not up inside the handle, so it reacts much
faster to tip cooling...I solder the binocular cores in the KPA100 with
the same tip I use for all the other work...As for the 63/37 eutectic
solder, building is not a problem with it...Rework is, because it sets up
so quickly, before all the solder is removed, and I use a Hakko 808
desolderer...I recently bought a Hakko solder station because my old
Weller WTCTP broke down...This week I repaired the Weller and it is back
on the bench because it works better for me...

I know this is going to generate a lot of flames and I am not going to
react to that...In my humble opinion, the Weller is one of the
best...It's more expensive, but you get what you pay for...

Jerry, wa2dkg
K2 #2549

>(a) a temperature controlled iron with a 0.8 mm tip for most of your
joints.
I use a Duratech product which has an LCD display of the temperature and
which has controls to enable you to change the temperature without
changing
the tip as in a popular Weller product.  I suggest an ESD safe product if
you can afford it.  (My Duratech TS1400 has a 4 mm socket to which one
can
attach a ground wire.  More on this below.)  Also have a couple of spare
tips of different sizes - a larger one with a flat tip may be just the
thing
for soldering crystal cases (ugh I HATE this part of the job).
(b) I suggest eutectic solder (63% tin 37% lead) with non soluble rosin
core.  I use a very fine gauge Ersin Multicore which works very well. 
The
eutectic solder has a one temperature, definite freezing point and I
believe
it reduces the incidence of cold joints.<