[Elecraft] K-2 kit has arrived.. Sockets?

Fri Jan 23 23:38:00 2004

My response would be DON'T, apart from the ICs that Elecraft have =
already
provided sockets for.

Sockets effectively lengthen the IC leads increasing "antenna lengths" =
thus
increasing noise propagation, and also socket connections with the IC =
legs
can be a source of unreliability.  Much better to follow the Elecraft
directions to the letter as the owner's manual is constantly updated in =
the
light of both Elecraft's experience and the experience of builders, some =
of
whom have had considerable training experience with electronics and
soldering to mil standards within the US Armed Forces and also large
civilian organisations.

I am up to the RF board in my K2 and lessons I have learned so far are:
1. Do RTFM.  You know what that means?  It means Read The *%&$@ Manual.  =
You
also need to update the manual(s) with all the errata and corrigenda =
that
Elecraft put with all their options.  Do this in ball point so it can be
seen easily.  There are no Brownie point for having a clean owner's =
manual
at the end of construction.  It is a working document so treat it as =
such.
Alright, you can download a pristine copy from the web and scribble all =
over
that if you really are that fussy about keeping your manual nice.  And =
mark
off the steps as you have completed them.  That is what those little =
boxes
are for.
2. Read and absorb N0SS Tom Hammond's indispensable tutorial on =
soldering on
the Elecraft Website.  Use the recommended fine gauge solder.  Use =
Eutectic
solder (37/63) which has a well defined freezing point. =20
3. Use a temperature controlled iron with a couple of tips, including a =
0.8
mm conical for most of the soldering of components to their pads.
4. Have a good quality desoldering tool handy.  If you can afford it, =
use
one with a built in soldering iron.  The GC product is excellent (Like a
solder pullt mounted behind a soldering iron with an axial hole drilled
through the tip) and only costs around USD40 (from memory).  The Denon
SC7000 is fantastic.  I have a reconditioned one which does the job
extremely well.  I use these tools rarely, but they are there if needed.
5. Use an antistatic mat and get the accompanying lead (with inbuilt
resistor) and plug it into a suitable ground.  This can be a connection =
to
the earth prong of your NEMA twin and earth plug, or in my case, I have =
a 4
mm earth socket on the front of my oscilloscope which is plugged into =
the
mains all the time.  Also get a earthing wrist strap and attach this to =
the
earth point on the antistatic mat.  Get into the habit of never doing
anything without the earth strap on your wrist.  It is all too easy to
forget it is not on when handling those precious ICs.
6. Avoid putting your components into plastic trays.  Use metal ones
instead.  (This is for static protection) I found a tinned steel bread =
loaf
tray with its rounded corners and edges just right for holding the bits =
for
a board, and the rounded edges allow old fingers to get a component =
between
fingernail and finger and slid up to the top edge where it can be =
grabbed
with the thumb reasonably easily.
7. Use a good quality flush cutting side cutters to cut the pigtails =
after
soldering FLUSH with the board.  What I do (and remember I am not =
trained by
the US Military) is to solder both pigtails of the components.  =
(Contrary to
the Elecraft recommendation, I do no more than a batch of six components =
at
a time.  Take your cue from the listing of components in the manual.  =
You
generally find that they fit three components across the page, so I find =
two
lines of components convenient to do at a time.)  This results in a =
lower
probability of missing soldering pigtails.  Having cut the pigtails =
flush
with the board, I then touch the tip of the iron to the pad to melt the
solder and then let it cool.  Then do the same to the other component
pigtail.  The result is a smooth, slightly domed finish which does not =
catch
the dust as a rough finish would.  It also makes sure that the pigtail =
is
properly soldered and that no movement took place while solder was =
cooling.
8. Get used to having an Opti-visor or similar magnifying glass visor on
your head while working.  Don't kid yourself, at your age you can not =
really
read those component markings with ease.  As for those pesky 1% =
resistors
with the blue bodies!
9. Double check your components with a meter.  I have a DMM and that
wonderful LC-II from Almost All Digital Electronics =
(http://www.aade.com).
Go on, invest in one of these, you deserve it.

I think that will do from me.  I mentioned in this group a few weeks ago =
how
I had procrastinated starting the build because of my fears.  I found =
that
gritting teeth, making a start, and going slowly - stopping as soon as a
feeling of tiredness set in - make the job a pleasure - even winding the
toroids.

I wish you all the pleasure and joy that building a K2 can give.  Just
imagine the fun we will have when our radios are completed.

73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] =
[mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of [email protected]
Sent: Friday, 23 January 2004 10:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Elecraft] K-2 kit has arrived.. Sockets?

How do people feel about putting all the ICs in sockets in the K2.  Is =
there

room?

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