[Elecraft] 3 1/2 Quick KAT2 Questions

[Tom Hammond]

Paul:

>I'm in the process of installing a KAT2 I just
>built in my K2 serial 3640.  Everything's working
>ok, so far, except that when adjusting C55, I get
>a sharp null but cannot dip the voltage below
>.010 (average, the reading on my DMM varies
>between .009 and .011 when I've set the K2 power
>to 5 watts).
>
>According to the Elecraft Reflector archives, back
>in 2002 getting the dip in the range I'm getting
>(.009 to .011)  was considered perfectly
>acceptable.  Does that still hold true today, or
>have opinions on this subject changed?

It DOES... you're good to go!

>Is it not a problem that on 17 meters and above I
>get the "HI" reading (after having nulled the
>voltage to .010 within the 40 meter band per the
>KAT2 manual)?

Should not be a problem...

>Last, as the KAT2 manual said it might, the toroid
>core for L1 is pretty loose.  Any reason I can't
>use a dab of hot glue to glue the core to the
>insulated winding?  (or, alternatively,  insert
>one of those "conical hat" rubber insulators used
>to support the enamel wire wound toroids,  under
>the core of L1 to support it so it won't rattle?
>Everything else is so "tight" and snug on my K2
>that I really like to secure the L1 core if doing
>so wouldn't goof up the operation of the KAT2.

It shouldn't mess anything up, but there really is NO reason to do so...!

If you are truly concerned about it being loose, re-wind it, using more 
tightly wrapped turns and then, when yo install it, once you have soldered 
it into place, grab one of the UNTRIMMED leads, pull (lightly) on it WHILE 
reheating the soldered joint. Repeat for the other lead and then trim to 
length. this will usually ensure that the core is held securely.

73,

Tom Hammond    N0SS