[Elecraft] Another UK K2 - 3314
Robert Cochrane
[email protected]
Mon Oct 6 07:00:01 2003
Guys
K2 3314 is now finished in its basic form after six months, with about
another six months to go before the accessory boards are all complete.
Many thanks to you all at Elecraft for your support (particularly Gary) and
to Don Brown for his help with T5.
There are probably a hundred or so K2s now completed in the UK. So nothing
in this message is really new, but I hope that coming from the UK it will
encourage more Gs and Ms to get out their soldering irons and feel the same
sense of achievement at each stage of completion.
A good and accessible overall review of the K2 by a UK builder is that by
Neill Taylor G4HLX, Practical Wireless Dec 2002 and on the Elecraft web site.
A recurring question is what construction ability, and what tools, are needed?
It is over forty years since I built my Heathkit all valve hi-fi and over
ten years since I built my last complex kit (a marvellous Hart
Lindsley-Hood hi-fi amplifier, now manufactured by Williams-Hart). So I
warmed up by building some tools first - in particular an OHR watt meter
and dummy antenna (www.OHR.com).
By the time the K2 arrived, my basic soldering skills had returned, but I
was still overawed by the number of tiny components and the complexity of
the RF board.
The next step was to buy a temperature controlled iron (an SL-30 with
digital readout from Van Draper with a set of different sized tips, which
has proved very reliable), a binocular headband mounted magnifying visor
and an adjustable lamp with a circular florescent tube.
In addition I bought a Vermason anti static kit from Farnell (good value
for a big mat and wrist set, but a larger mat than I really need - other
firms such as Maplin have smaller, cheaper sets now and the portable
computer technician sets are big enough for a K2 workbench) and a new set
of needle pliers, flush side cutters and locking tweezers. Did not use a
panavise for the boards, but my Dremel portable D-vise (with soft and hard
jaws) was very helpful, particularly for soldering leads to socket pins etc.
The visor was essential for close vision and provided full eye protection
as well. Mine came from Kanga UK which is regrettably closed at
present. Horizon Magnifiers advertise the OptiVisor in the UK, but I have
no experience of it. A simple watchmaker's eyeglass also helps with
checking for poor joints and bridges, particularly if like me you have long
sight and are the senior side of fifty.
The shadowless lamp was also a great help. I actually bought one with a
magnifier in its centre, but I don't use it, preferring the binocular
visor. Highly recommend you try out the various options if you can to
check what works for you, particularly if you already wear glasses.
Once I had the right tools, construction was much easier. It is a big
project, but is definitely within the ability of anyone who has practiced
soldering (see the excellent notes on the Elecraft site) and completed a
couple of simpler projects. However (as everyone has said) removing
components from the beautiful boards with their through plated holes is not
straightforward and it is vital to check and double check components before
soldering the second pin, particularly ICs and tall multi-pin connectors.
Made two mistakes - bent an IC pin under and did not notice until I had a
several pins soldered, and damaged a capacitor changing the lead pitch from
2mm to 4mm as needed by the board spacing. And had another slightly tricky
component removal task when I added the thermistor frequency stabilising
board, which replaced a multi-pin resistor network.
If you have to remove an IC with more than one soldered pin, it is
essential that you sacrifice the chip, get another one from RS or Maplin
(or Viewcom Electronics in Plaistow, who sell the rarer ICs such as the
SA602AN individually at very reasonable prices) or ask Gary to send one,
carefully extract the pins and carefully clean out the holes and the board
with de-soldering copper braid. I had no success with a sucker and cannot
justify the best solution, a de-soldering iron such as the Hakko.
The only problems which were beyond my control were the fit of the front
panel (corrected by trimming the connecting pins - watch out for the
occasional builder's alert) and the VCO calibration. Don Brown reassured
me that I was not alone on the latter and suggested that I change the first
winding of T5 to 17 turns, which did the trick. (Perhaps there is a note
in the manual by now - the bold headline on page 52 of my manual put me off
experimenting...)
The real message is to take your time. The K2 plus accessories really does
take those of us with multiple lives a winter to complete - allowing for
the usual business and domestic interruptions. Treat it as a medium term
project, taking six months to a year.
Do the parts check and sort out all the components into little (non-static)
bags with labels on them. That way, if you travel on business and for
pleasure as I do, you can pack up and start again quickly.
Read the manual carefully and follow it step by step. If you are returning
to the hobby, remember that after a hard day in the office, old eyes cannot
concentrate for more than about 40 minutes at a time and three sessions in
an evening will be enough. Set the chair slightly on the low side to ease
your neck and save that well earned beer until afterwards...
And wearing an apron with loops sewn on the bottom hooked onto the
underside of the bench (as my SMD microwave friends do) may sound a bit far
fetched, but it is a lot easier than vacuuming underneath amongst the dusty
power supplies and the roll of RG58 with a cloth over the pipe end to find
the miniature capacitors after you drop them as I did.
Finally, don't feel embarrassed about asking for help. The Elecraft guys
at the works and on the reflector are a real community.
And now on to the accessory boards and another twenty toroids!
Wayne and Eric - thank you.
Rob
M0RAC
VR2ARC
Robert A Cochrane
7 Lawn Terrace
Blackheath
London SE3 9LJ UK
Tel (44) 020 8297 1978
Mob (44) 07764 197 701