[Elecraft] K1 Filter Board Test Points ?

William Carter [email protected]
Sun Mar 23 07:33:00 2003


Mike 

Thanks for the response.  Please allow me to be a
little more precise.

P1 pin1, P1 pin2 00.0
P1 pin3, P1 pin4 .0L
P2 pin2, P2 pin4 1.201
P3 pin1, P3 pin3 .0L
P3 pin8, P3 pin6 .0L

Sorry, I am new to even multimeters.  My meter comes
up .oL and indicates a change by showing oo.o why it
says .oL on some not sure.

T1 leads 1,2 read 00.0
T1 leads 3,4 read 00.0

T2 leads 1,2 read 00.0
T2 leads 3,4 read 00.0

I did a continuity check, 
T1 leads 1,2 continuity yes.
T1 leads 3,4 continuity yes.
note 1,3 or 2,4 continuity no.

T2 has a problem.  All combinations show continuity.

A.  I need to buy more toroid wire, do you know where
I can get a spool of red and green #26.  I think a
good investment.

B. I should remove U1 before I de-solder.

I tried to remove coating on toroid via solder iron,
someone told me to use bic lighter, steel wool or fine
sand paper.

Maybe before I solder anymore toroids I should check
them?  Continuity and ohms????

Thanks so much for your help and continued tips.  I
just can't pay to have someone build it.  I will learn
this if it kills me!

Besides making sure all components in correct place, I
guess do continuity checks on board to look for solder
joins.  To the eye it looks great.  I checked all
components again - fine.  I will try to trace say a P1
Pin point via schematic and look for continuity and
solder joints.

73
Bill KG4FXG









--- "Morrow, Michael A." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bill wrote of the KFL1-4:
> 
> > Problems with P1,P2,P3 test points.
> > 
> > P1 pin 1, P1 pin 2 reads 0 (nothing)
> > P1 pin 3, P1 pin 4 reads 0
> > P2 pin 2, P2 pin 4 reads 1.212 m
> > P3 pin 1, P3 pin 3 reads 0
> > P3 pin 8, P3 pin 6 reads 0
> 
> As Tom noted, it's very hard to tell whether the "0
> (nothing)" you report is
> meant to tell us whether you mean that a SHORTED
> (zero ohm) condition is
> being shown by your ohm-meter, or an OPEN (infinite
> or very high ohm)
> condition is being shown.
> 
> If "0" indicated above actually means you have a
> OPEN condition between the
> test points, then ALL the values you report above
> are OK except for:
> 
> > P1 pin 1, P1 pin 2 reads 0 (nothing)
> 
> Here, there should be almost zero ohms (SHORT) shown
> by your meter.  If not,
> then you need to check if there's near zero ohms
> shown between the PCB
> solder pads for the green winding (terminals 1 and
> 2) on T1.  If there is
> instead a high resistance at these two points on the
> PCB, then you've likely
> not adequately removed the insulation from and
> tinned T1's green leads.  You
> should probably make the same checks between the
> solder pads for the red
> windings, then the green windings, on ALL toroids on
> the PCB.  There should
> be a short shown in EVERY case.
> 
> On the other hand, if you really really really meant
> that a short in being
> shown with
> 
> > P1 pin 3, P1 pin 4 reads 0
> > P3 pin 1, P3 pin 3 reads 0
> > P3 pin 8, P3 pin 6 reads 0
> 
> then you've got some unwanted solder bridges in
> three different circuits,
> and the value you reported with
> 
> > P1 pin 1, P1 pin 2 reads 0 (nothing)
> 
> is OK.
> 
> These are less likely, which is why I think you're
> actually indicating high
> or open resistance rather than the "0" ohms you
> report.
> 
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F
> 
> 


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