[Elecraft] Need construction hints/advice

[email protected] [email protected]
Tue Jul 22 15:53:01 2003


Peter, VE1CHS wrote:

"Is there  better solder out there that fellows are using for the K2 and
K1, that never fails to produce that "shiny" seal?"
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I use .031" Kester 44 which leaves a shiny finish, but I feel that
getting the joint to look good depends highly on using the right heat for
the right amount of time.  Heat the joint while applying the solder. 
Touch the solder to the joint (not to the iron!) and let it flow into the
joint before removing the heat.

Re-heating the joint usually will spoil its appearance, so try to get it
right the first time.
==========

"Is the El Cheapo 25 watt Radio Shack soldering iron adequate, or do
fellows recommend a more expensive Weller solder station?  If so, what is
a quality, yet reasonably priced, Weller solder Station model?"
----------
When I started building my K2 I used an Ungar 45-watt pencil iron.  That
was obviously too much heat so I bought an El Cheapo Weller 30-watt
pencil iron, which was also too hot.  Then I bought a Radio Shack 25-watt
pencil iron which is perfect with the .031" Kester 44, IMO.  For joints
that need more heat (the KPA100 PA transistors, etc.), I use the Weller
or the Ungar.

If you buy the RS 25-watter make sure to buy a couple of replacement tips
for it at the same time.
==========

"Are fellows cleaning their boards with Acetone to remove caked and
perhaps slightly burnt rosin, or is there a better solvent? I've been
using acetone with a cotton swab, but I have to carefully examine the
board with magnifiers and use a brush to remove the resultant cotton
fibres."
----------
It's really not necessary to clean the boards although I cleaned mine
after they were completed just to make them look "prettier".  I used
isopropyl (rubbing)alcohol and a stiff-bristled brush designed for the
purpose of PC board cleaning.

73, de Earl, K6SE