[Elecraft] Key, Keyer, Paddle etc. Recommendation?

Bill Coleman [email protected]
Thu Mar 21 11:49:01 2002


On 3/20/02 11:37 PM, "D.R. Weiss KI=D8RP" at [email protected] wrote:

>Kirby, here's one CW op's opinion:
>
>2.  IF you want to spend a lot of time SENDING CW, I would get some 
>paddles, since (a) the K2 has a built-in keyer, and (b) paddles are a LOT 
>less tiring than a straight key. 

I just wanted to add that, back in the "old" days, beginning CW operators 
use a straight key. It usually wasn't until they "graduated" to speeds of 
about 15 wpm or higher that they moved to a bug or a keyer. 

It is possible to send code at 10-20 wpm comfortably with a straight key. 
There's a great article in 73 magazine in 1972 (I think it was the 
February issue) that talks about proper use of a straight key and 
avoiding "glass arm". The key is to use a relatively wide spacing and a 
rather sloppy feel to the pivot. This gives a lot of feedback. Another 
idea is to weight the key. (photograph if a can of Spam wired to the key 
arm.

But, if you have QSOs much above 15 wpm, you'll likely want to use a 
keyer. Unfortunately, paddles are outrageously expensive. I mean, you can 
buy a whole QRP rig for the price of most paddles. You either have to 
bite the bullet and spend about $100 for a set of paddles, or try to make 
your own.

If you're handy, you could probably build a passible set of paddles out 
of PC board material. There have been plenty of articles on this in the 
past. You could also take TWO straight keys and hook them up back to back 
as paddles.

Good luck!


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: [email protected]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
            -- Wilbur Wright, 1901