[Elecraft] Key, Keyer, Paddle etc. Recommendation?
Bill Coleman
[email protected]
Thu Mar 21 11:49:01 2002
On 3/20/02 11:37 PM, "D.R. Weiss KI=D8RP" at [email protected] wrote:
>Kirby, here's one CW op's opinion:
>
>2. IF you want to spend a lot of time SENDING CW, I would get some
>paddles, since (a) the K2 has a built-in keyer, and (b) paddles are a LOT
>less tiring than a straight key.
I just wanted to add that, back in the "old" days, beginning CW operators
use a straight key. It usually wasn't until they "graduated" to speeds of
about 15 wpm or higher that they moved to a bug or a keyer.
It is possible to send code at 10-20 wpm comfortably with a straight key.
There's a great article in 73 magazine in 1972 (I think it was the
February issue) that talks about proper use of a straight key and
avoiding "glass arm". The key is to use a relatively wide spacing and a
rather sloppy feel to the pivot. This gives a lot of feedback. Another
idea is to weight the key. (photograph if a can of Spam wired to the key
arm.
But, if you have QSOs much above 15 wpm, you'll likely want to use a
keyer. Unfortunately, paddles are outrageously expensive. I mean, you can
buy a whole QRP rig for the price of most paddles. You either have to
bite the bullet and spend about $100 for a set of paddles, or try to make
your own.
If you're handy, you could probably build a passible set of paddles out
of PC board material. There have been plenty of articles on this in the
past. You could also take TWO straight keys and hook them up back to back
as paddles.
Good luck!
Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: [email protected]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901