[CW] Key Contact Cleaning

D.J.J. Ring, Jr. n1ea at arrl.net
Thu May 12 19:27:34 EDT 2022


Rub N Brite is still available from Bill Smith's widow:
https://wrsmithclocks.com/product/rub-n-brite/

His books and DVDs are also still available.

https://wrsmithclocks.com/books/

73
DR
N1EA


On Thu, May 12, 2022 at 6:42 PM Chris R. NW6V <chrisrut7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Steve.
>
> I agree with your suggestion about those burnishing tools for touchups,
> and with David regarding the scratch brushes for anything more (although I
> prefer the smaller diameter brush listed on the same page). BTW, to
> reiterate and expand on what Dave said - when I use scratch brushes for
> restorations and deep-cleaning, I wear rubber gloves, glasses, and as often
> as not, a mask - because those little fiberglass shards are VERY stiff and
> very sharp and hurt you in many ways. But they work amazingly well for
> cleaning surface gunk and rust off surfaces. Amazing results can be had,
>
>  Deoxit - is a terrific product - on things like band switches, rheostats,
> stereos, and old rotary TV tuners. I used to drink the stuff as a kid (no,
> I didn't :-). But on a KEY, in most cases, I'd view it with reservations
> (uness you are in a highly corrosive environment - like Dave, aboard a
> ship, perhaps). A fellow on the SKCC site reported it made his key quieter
> so his XYL could sleep; I'll buy that :-) Deoxit is 95% (per their MSDS)
> volatile carriers that rapidly evaporate. What's left behind - is a trade
> secret, but is a corrosion inhibitor of some sort. Obviously works on
> switches. But it is left behind.
>
> Even if that corrosion inhibitor has no negative properties, I question
> the need; unless you're operating in a corrosive environment (like aboard a
> ship). And even then, contacts are so easy to keep corrosion-free by simple
> maintenance, I still question the need.
>
> As for surface corrosion prevention, on keys, the best bet is "Rub n'
> Brite" by WR. Smith (W4PAL) which is a formulated wax blend. Bill was
> arguably the greatest key restoration guy ever, and his book "How to
> Restore Telegraph Keys" is the textbook on the subject - it has some
> mindblowing restorations in it. He suggested protecting bare metal surfaces
> like springs on bugs with a thinned-out lacquer, not oil.
>
> General comments on keys and lubes:  As the ex-president of a
> lubrication company (white lightning bicycle lubricants), I strongly
> recommend no lubricants of any kind be used on a key. Nothing on a key
> needs lubrication to function properly (there are no high-pressure or high
> speed bearing surfaces), and with the small rotational angles, low
> velocities, and low forces in keys, any reduction in friction is likely to
> be exceeded by the stiction the lubricant will add. Worse, lubricants
> generally exhibit electrostatic charges that literally attract dust. But
> even dust just floating by will stick to even the slightest tackiness or
> wetness and over time, turn into grinding paste. And lubricants migrate
> from where they are put both by surface wetting and by evaporation and
> redeposition on surrounding surfaces. Then, just for fun, over time, the
> volatile portions evaporate and turn the remainder into an acidic lacquer
> that can be very difficult to remove, and ruins underlying surfaces.
> Lubricants also tend to be non-conductive and wreck the electrical path on
> things like trunnion bearings and contacts.
>
> And those are the things I like about it... :-)
>
> 73 Chris NW6V
>
>
> On Thu, May 12, 2022 at 12:14 PM Steve WD8DAS via CW <cw at mailman.qth.net>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I like these Jonard burnishing tools for relay contacts and telegraph key
>> contacts:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-OB-1-Burnisher-Insulated-Thickness/dp/B006C47JOI/
>>
>> Close the contact on the blade of the tool and pull out. I follow-up with
>> a little Deoxit D5 rubbed on from a piece of paper.
>>
>>
>> Steve WD8DAS
>>
>> sbjohnston at aol.com
>> http://www.wd8das.net/
>> http://af4k-crystals.com
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>>
>>
>>
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>> =30=
>
>
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