[CW] Cleaning Metal

[Joe Pontek Sr]

Cleaning & polishing metal involves two processes.  Cleaning removes surface
particles. polishing or burnishing (they mean the same) moves metal 
about and
may even remove some metal.  A detergent with water will remove grim and
oils and should not damage the metal if properly dried.  It might take a 
little soft
bushing to cut through the surface of the grim, soften and remove it. 
Sometimes,
a petrol distillate is used to remove the grim if some of it is oil 
based.  These should
not effect plating unless the plating is already loosened from the base 
metal.

AFter cleaning and drying, then you can polish it.  You do not want to 
grind grim
into the metals, platings or the base metal.  Some polishes will remove 
a lot of
metal and others, very little.  Some early keys were poorly plated and 
the stronger
polishes would remove some or even all of the plating.  Brasso is one 
strong one
and some bar polishes.  They are meant for brass and stainless steel, 
not plated
metal surfaces.

When I got into key restorations, Bill introduced me to his "Rub N 
Brite" polish
and I have used it exclusively since.  It has never removed any nickel 
or chrome
plating where the brass showed through and, when did as the instructions 
say,
it gives me a mirror finish and a hard protective surface, no lacquer 
needed.

I know us hams are cheap (frugal), but is the best $20 I have spent in 
some time.
I have a jar/bottle up here and in Belize.  I think if you have a buddy 
nearby,
you could split it two or three ways and probably never run out.  This 
does not
conflict with that well written artical.  Bill was famous mahinist and 
ckock maker
know around the world and I thank God I knew him for the short time I 
did. He,
like my Uncle Stan, taught many of life's lessons about doing mechanicla 
work
that was hard for me, the opposite of electronics

This was written by Bill, W4PAL(SK), about his metal polish.

Years ago, David Rubin made one of the finest metal polishes 
available—Rubin Brite. Unlike many polishes, it also protected the 
mirror finish it produced with a heavy coating of hard carnauba wax, 
which lasted for years.

Like Rubin Brite, my polish polishes rapidly to a mirror finish and 
leaves a hard, protective coating of carnauba wax. It is an excellent 
polish for un-lacquered brass, silver, copper, pewter, chrome, nickel, 
aluminum, stainless steel and jewelry. It is quite rewarding to see the 
mirror finish come to life during the final treatment with a soft cloth 
and biscuit flour or starch. This is a real solution for those who loved 
Rubin Brite and have longed for a replacement polish.

Thanks, Rich, for pointing out this excellent article.
73, Joe, K8JP/K5
PS.  If I missed any typos and failed to correct them, this med is still 
blurring my vision.
On 5/13/2020 4:22 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote:
> For those who want to clean keys, etc., I found an article at the 
> Victoria and Albert museum that may be of interest
>
> <http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/cleaning-metals-basic-guidelines/> 
>
>
> -- 
> Richard Knoppow
> 1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com
> WB6KBL

-- 
Regards, Joe, K8JP/V31JP, Ronnie, Martin & Sidney Pontek
175 Diamond Loch Rd., Apt. 5
Gilmer, TX 75644-9374
U.S.A.
or
P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
(Hopkins Village) Belize

903-204-2318 (My TX cellular)
903-884-5990 (Skype telephone number, Belize & TX)
Also, K8JP, member FOC-1743 Feb 2001, QCWA-LM21894, OOTC-4607, A1OP, SKCC-3171T, NAQCC-5798, Flying Pig-2819, FISTS-7625CC951, A1C-2299, SOC 1075, CFO, 10-10 22977, PG1915841, CW Rag chewers #21,
Facebook: Joe Pontek
Skype: v31joepalooka
LotW

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