[CW] Lots cootie info

[Tony Martin W4FOA]

Hi Roy,
It is good to see the increased interest in the cootie key, isn't it?

My initial thought was to not make any comment regarding the "proper" way to
use a cootie key but then I thought maybe my opinion might encourage someone
along the line that finds JB's method confusing.

While I think JB has done a great job in encouraging folks to learn to use
the cootie key, I do, personally speaking, take exception to his comment
about starting every letter or character with the finger, as opposed to the
thumb. I did what I guess is the typical progression from a hand key to a
bug, to a paddle, to a cootie key, etc.  Still use them all and have one of
each on my operating position.

Anyway, my thoughts on JB's idea of beginning each letter with one's finger
as opposed to the thumb actually make things a bit more difficult, rather
than easier.  For example, if you are used to using a bug, or paddle, you
use the thumb for "dits" and finger(s) for "dahs".  Therein lies the problem
as I see it.  If you are already used to making the initial dits with your
thumb and dahs with your fingers, why complicate matters by saying you begin
each letter with your finger(s) when using a cootie key?  It is highly
probable that you are already "naturally" wanting to use the same routine as
you used on a bug/paddle, that is to say, if you are going to send the
letter "L", you will be inclined to begin that letter with the thumb (as you
do on a bug)....and likewise, if you are going to send "Y", you as a bug
user, will naturally want to begin with your finger(s).

I just read that and it is confusing...my apologies.  What I am trying to
convey is this, I don't believe you need to learn to begin each letter any
different than you would if you were using a bug or paddle.  In my case, the
first element of each letter that I send on a cootie key begins exactly the
same way as if I was going to send it on a bug.  It is as automatic as
breathing, and even better, I don't have big red marks on my hand from  the
rubber band torture, as in Mike's case,hi. I believe learning the way I have
described above really is important, especially if you want to be able to
switch from a bug to a cootie, to a paddle with minimal confusion.

I learned to use the cootie, as I did the bug, paddle and hand pump, by
myself.  In fact when I learned the code, I didn't have a code oscillator.
Being a 13 year old, I didn't think it seemed strange that since I didn't
have an oscillator to make the tones, I would just make them with my own
voice...which I did. So there's my 2 cents, FWIW.

Please don't take this as criticism of JB's way of learning to use the
cootie.  My comments are offered as encouragement and perhaps another way to
anyone who may have had difficulty in learning the "other" way.

I'd be interested in other's opinions as well....

JB, thanks for all the effort you have put forth on your fine webpage!

Mike, I hope you are not still using the rubber band, hi.!

CU on the bands...

Tony, W4FOA


----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Koeppe" <royanjoy at ncn.net>
To: "CW Reflector" <cw at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 3:14 PM
Subject: [CW] Lots cootie info


> Mike gave permission to post this...enjoy.
>
> Roy     K6XK
>
>
> First a link:
> http://www.mtechnologies.com/cootie.htm
>
> In his article Jerry Bartachek describes precisely the method I learned
> to use a "Cootie."  Others use it differently but I firmly believe the
> method described by Bartachek is the very best method.  It results in a
> particular set of motions which is consistent for each letter and once
> learned, permits easily switching from a Cootie to a semi-automatic
> "Bug" and to a keyer without breaking stride.  Learning properly will
> take some devoted work on your part.  When I was learning, I put a red
> rubber band on my sending wrist and if my fingers made a word's final
> "e" with the thumb, I would snap my wrist with the rubber band.  It
> cannot be properly learned if one just does what seems most natural, to
> be done well, it must be approached with a definite discipline.  Once
> learned, it is just natural and is well worth the effort one spent
> learning correctly.
>
> (About keyers, I do not like the so-called Iambic keyers or keys and
> NONE of the operators I chat with use Iambic keys or keyers.  They all
> use single-lever keys.)
>
> If you look at my picture at qrz.com under my callsign, you will see the
> sideswiper that I use and note the layout of the parts on the base.
> There are no electronics between the key and the rig.  My contact posts
> are grounded to the base of the key without insulation and the armature
> post is insulated from the base.  My key has no other use than to be a
> sideswiper.  It is all brass with each part then having been gold
> plated.  It is a really pretty thing !  You probably can't tell from the
> photo, but the base is a full inch thick so it is heavy enough to stay
> put.
>
> For years, people made their Cooties from pieces of hacksaw blades, but
> mine is made from a strip of brass 0.032 inches thick and 1/2 inch wide.
> I'm not sure about the thickness, but that is close.  If you want to
> make your own cootie, you can order three contact posts and two contact
> screws from Bencher.  One will hold the armature and the other two hold
> the contacts.  Be sure to also order the small setscrews that hold the
> top of the post together so your contacts will stay in adjustment and so
> the brass piece will stay in place.
>
> I fashioned a fingerpiece of rosewood and affixed it to the brass strip,
> which I got at a hobby shop.  Then I held the strip securely alongside a
> vertical surface and varied the length of the free end with the
> fingerpiece so that it had a tension or stiffness that suited my touch.
> >From that measurement, I knew how long to make the armature extend from
> its post out to the fingerpiece in my completed key.  When I send with
> any horizontal key, the center of the fleshy part of my thumb rides the
> top edge of the fingerpiece when sending and the other side is pushed
> with my index and middle fingers.
>
> Once I had the key assembled, I made a mark on the armature precisely
> centered between the adjustable contacts and bored a hole about 3/32
> inch in diameter.  Then I took the armature and all the rest to my
> plating shop and had the armature (with all holes and modifications
> necessary already made and had it gold plated.  Be sure that everything
> is done so you will not have to mar the plating later.  Once plated, I
> took the armature to a jeweler friend and had him pass a short, gold
> wire through the hole and brad it down on both sides to give a good
> contact surface.  It is important NOT to get this wire installed prior
> to the plating because when brass is plated, other metals are plated
> onto the brass first and your gold contact wire will be ruined !  If
> going to this much trouble, you might do well to ask a jeweler how big
> to make the hole in the armature so it will properly fit a gold wire he
> can pass through the armature to make your moving contacts.
>
> When sending with a sideswiper, I always push first with my fingers and
> lightly grasp the fingerpiece also with my thumb until that character is
> complete.  Then I release it until beginning the next character.
>
> I see from the link provided in Bartachek's article that two sideswipers
> are offered for sale.  I cannot speak to those because I have never used
> a commercial sideswiper.  I can tell you to steer clear of a Bunnell
> sideswiper.  They are expensive collectors items but they are too stiff
> for anybody I've ever talked with.  It is important not to have
> independent dot and dash levers because the back and forth motion of
> sideswipery will be messed up by that configuration.
>
> I hope to erect an aerial shortly and would be happy to speak with you
> on CW.  Feel free to ask questions if you need clarification on
> anything.
>
> 73,
> Mike Hyder  -N4NT
>
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