[Collins] KWM2 help n cab 4 it

[Dr. Gerald N. Johnson]

On Sat, 2007-10-06 at 14:39 -0700, Bill - KK4XI wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I have recently discovered this Collins mail server
> and figured out how to send just plain text. I have
> subscribed to the CCA server for a while and like me,
> others have subscribed to both. So hi to those that do
> not. I have posted this query on the CCA and figured I
> would post here also.
> 
> I have managed to procure my first guinea pig rig. It
> is a old KWM2 but with Teflon wires hanging all over
> the place, rust here and there, and dust and grime
> every where. WHY? The last SK (God rest his soul and
> give him a new complete Collins station with no QRM )
> that owned it apparently did not have a cabinet and it
> must have sat in a humid basement for a long time. Why
> do I know this? He installed feet on the chassis.

A few hams in Cedar Rapids built radios from parts found in the
engineering parts room and Collins surplus. PTOs and cabinets were the
hardest parts to get that way.
> 
> Anyway, I am going to attempt to resurrect it as my
> first guinea pig rig restore project rather then start
> on my other old stuff. So I have a few questions and a
> need (i.e.HELP :-).
> 
> 1. The CCA web site has a KWM-2A manual I downloaded
> and printed. Trying to compare the pix in the manual
> to the rig is driving me nuts. The pix are a lot newer
> then the my rig configuration.

And older manual will help. You can't go by serial number anyway since
they were issued in random order. You have to work out the vintage of
the radio by date codes on tubes, crystals, mechanical filter, and
electrolytics. Sometimes there's a MCN (Manufacturing Change Number)
that helps show which version it was.
>  
> Q? Would an older just KWM-2 manual be better to see
> what is what and if so where can I get one? Some one
> suggested the WB7SSN CD.
> 
> 2. The open phone relays appear to be in rough shape
> and I think he was trying to fix them but failed.
> Wires are loose all over them and trying to read the
> schematic/pix in the manual does not help. It appears
> he even tried to change the RCA connectors on the back
> to do something other then what they were labeled.

Those relays were trouble even in the factory. At one time some bright
person in the warehouse noticed that when boxed as they came from the
relay maker, they took up more space than if unboxed and unwrapped. That
handling in the warehouse and stuffing them into big plastic totes bent
the delicate adjustments of the contacts and it cost a lot of work at
Anamosa getting them to work. I don't especially like that type of relay
because the gaps are small and the contact wipe minimal plus they have
that need for precise contact adjustment which takes a little skill and
a lot patience. The Collins enclosed relay modification still used the
telephone type but in a plastic case that plugged into a socket so that
bending the terminals to get the wires in didn't change the contact
adjustments.

I have used the P&B KHP family for 110 VDC in that application. I prefer
it being a clapper type of relay. It has more contact clearance and
motion and wipe and has no need for adjustments. It may be noisier than
the telephone type.
> 
> Q. I saw a Relay Conversion Kit for sale from Surplus
> Sales for $135 (plus a bunch of great parts). Would it
> be wise to get this rather then fight the open relay
> problem? 
> 
> 3. As I said earlier no cabinet and very cruddy. I was
> going to put the dreaded "Help with Cleaning Again" on
> the subject line but did not want to cause a "OH
> NO!!!" panic. I have read all the ins and outs and
> dooos and don'ts of everyone that contributed to the
> questions in the CCA archives, the CRA archives (now
> that I found them) AND the Boatanchors archives. I
> have learned this...
> 
> a. After cleaning with whatever, you can rinse it all
> off with distilled water only (due to stuff in our
> drinking water and the things fish do and leave in it
> ;-)
> 
> b. You can waste electricity and put it in your oven
> for a week @125 degrees or living in pair-of-dice I
> can put it out in the Florida sunshine (and remember
> to bring it in if it rains). Maybe on the AC fan
> outside mmmmmmm??? Same as a hair dryer.

You don't want to hit with the full heat of a hair dryer, that can warp
some of the plastics.
> 
> c. Everyone uses different things and ways to clean.
> Many spoke highly of CP-43 but that is hard to obtain.
> I have found that Green Kleen is a substitute without
> some chems in it and I think I can get it at Graingers
> along with Simple Green, another suggestion.
> 
> Q. Has anyone found a better and reliable cleaning
> solvent to use?
> 
> d. The valve covers and the final cage top appear to
> be a bronze color and not the aluminum dull silver
> color. I have not applied anything other then a 91%
> alcohol damped cloth to it and it stayed the same
> color although cleaner.

Likely those parts were alodyned that bronze color. Might be a sign of a
military radio.
> 
> Q. Is this the original color or are they really that
> discolored?
> 
> 5. I have blown off and gently wiped the sticker with
> the S/N and I still can not read it.
> 
> Q. Does some one know of a way to read it without
> taking it to CSI and have them do it :-)
> 
> 6. Last but not least I need something to eventually
> slide it into so I do not drool on the 6146's as they
> glow and get elec-trickle-cuted and to protect it.
> 
> Q. Does anyone have something I can buy (I am trying
> to save my $ to buy a nice KWM2)? 
> The dimensions of the M2 chassis are +/-  6" X 14.25"
> X 12.25". Maybe it does not have to be a M2 cab. Will
> it fit in a old S-line cab with some mods? I think the
> M2 was just a little longer is all.

I think every S-Line took a different cabinet except 32S and 75S took
the same cabinet. Since there are nearly as many parts in a KWM-2 as a
32S plus a 75S, the KWM-2 would tend to be larger.
> 
> The cabinet does not have to be in any great shape
> other then to protect the rig. If it is bent or has
> holes or painted pink does not matter. A hammer, piece
> of wood, file, and paint remover is all I will need.
> 
> Okay, enough letters and numbers and spaces. I thank
> all of you that have helped me out in the past queries
> on the other lists and who knows, I might be able to
> answer other queries when it comes to KWM2 questions
> and rebuilds. I think that if it does not get passed
> on and used.... it gets lost forever... and that is a
> long time.
> 
> God bless to all and have a happy forever.
> 73 es GLITC,
> Bill
> 
> P.s. You can reply off-server if you do not want your
> comments kept forever... but if it helps others later
> on, go through the server.
>