[Collins] More 75A-4 Recap
Dr.Gerald Johnson
geraldj at ispwest.com
Mon Sep 6 15:32:07 EDT 2004
I'm sure I didn't advise reading Rippel's Deadly article. I don't recall ever
seeing it, though I read it this afternoon.
My experience has been that few micas have failed. Few disc ceramics
have failed. That is not to say they can't just I've not found a large
enough number failed to justify shotgun replacement.
Certainly coupling capacitors going to grids with high impedance
ground returns like the AVC line are ultra sensitive to leakage. Mica is a
natural substance and some can have inclusions.
For a 4 pf coupling capacitor, mica will have better temperature
stability than all but the finest of ceramic. A cheap easily found ceramic
might loose a significant fraction (a quarter to 3/4) of its capacitance
when up to tube base temperature causing a loss of gain. NPO
temperature coefficient has nearly the stability of silver mica.
Dipped mica capacitors are imperfect, the conducting layers being
silver paint on the mica. Most molded micas (unless in a red case) were
made up of stacks of foil and mica, which seemed to be more reliable,
though the silver micas have better stability because of the exclusion of
air between the silver and the mica. When used for frequency
determining oscillators, a few silver micas will have random jumps in
value that seem to be caused by air bubbles in the dip. The pressure of
the molded mica would have minimized or eliminate those bubbles.
I don't favor replacing .01 disc ceramics with orange drops, even at
audio. I do recommend the most stabile of disc ceramics which will be
relatively large. If the replacement is smaller in diameter than the
original, its sure that its temperature coefficient will be larger and that's
not a good replacement. Especially in the receiver IF and front end, the
disc ceramic's lower inductance will lead to greater gain than the same
sized orange drop. In the old days orange drops were not the extended
foil construction they are today making the inductance much greater. In
vintage receivers using paper capacitors for screen and cathode
bypasses, some have found significantly improved 21 and 28 MHz
performance when those paper capacitors have been replaced by
disc ceramics to reduce the inductance of the bypass capacitors.
I have downloaded the parts list and illustrations sections for the 75A4
from the CCA web page. I had to copy the parts list to a faster
computer because this one is too slow. I have examined the listing for all
the questioned parts.
As for C124, that "0.5mmf" PAPER capacitor has to be a 1/2 microfarad
paper. Paper capacitors have never been made much smaller than
1000 mmf (pf) ( 1 nf) and a 0.5 pf capacitor would be a poor bypass for
a B+ line at any frequency under 10 GHz where it would be marginally
small. One can make a 0.5 pf capacitor (not with necessarily great
quality or stability) by twisting together two #22 solid PVC insulated
copper wires. Takes about a half inch to make 1/2 pf. Not a benefit in
an HF radio to add a 1/2 pf capacitor. Less than the stray capacitance
on the B+ wiring in the cable harness.
That 1/2 mfd paper capacitor probably had a tolerance of +/- 10%.
Today the nearest standard value is 0.47. The next higher is 0.56. As for
voltage on paper, mica, and ceramic using a higher voltage capacitor
than the original may be of benefit in keeping leakage down but will
always cost in the physical size of the capacitor being large. A 1/2 mfd
200 volt paper is fairly large, it has to be nearly twice as big (thicker
insulation in the roll) for 400 volts and with the same type of insulation
three times the volume for 600 volts. So besides the added cost it can
be hard to fit in the place and will have a greater inductance than the
original. When asking for RF bypassing, added inductance is not a good
thing. And the value of a bypass capacitor is generally uncritical. Either
0.47 or 0.56 would work.
In the old days before about 1960 one needed to replace electrolytics
with the voltage rating as near as possible but above the working
voltage. Operating a 450 volt capacitor in a 300 volt circuit tended
make that high voltage capacitor change value, and probably get a
little more leaky because the electrolyte would eat away at the
previously formed oxide making it thinner (and probably raising the
capacitance). Again the higher voltage part was often harder to fit
because it was always larger. Long about 1960, GE came out with
replacement electrolytic capacitors that claimed to have cured any
faults with using the higher voltage electrolytic on lower voltage so one
could stock only 450 volt capacitors and use them for 250, 350, and 450
volt applications. Maybe even for 150 volt applications. And they quit
selling the lower voltage parts.
The electrolyte eats away at the oxide formed when the capacitor is
made when there is no voltage applied. New Old Stock electrolytics are
not of value in my experience. They will be more leaky than used
electrolytics of the same age and for me they fail violently.
Rather than shell out $25 for an Allied minimum order, I'd go with a 3.9 pf
NPO disc ceramic. For low leakage, perhaps a 1 KV part like Mouser's
75-10TCCV39 for 28 cents. Or I'd lower the leakage of the original by
removing the accumulated dirt of the past 45 years.
73, Jerry, K0CQ, Technical Advisor to the CRA
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
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