[Boatanchors] OT: Results of the "Vinyl Repair" post

[Bry Carling]

Do they have a kit for doing OTHER colors than black? I have a brown shack chair that has a similar problem with a vinyl tear.


Bry AF4K

________________________________
From: boatanchors-bounces at mailman.qth.net <boatanchors-bounces at mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Phil <ko6bb1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 12:38 AM
To: Boatanchors
Subject: [Boatanchors] OT: Results of the "Vinyl Repair" post

Hi,

Yesterday I posted a question concerning how to repair a 1 1/2 inch cut
in a wheelchair vinyl armrest (new chair, my boo-boo in unwrapping it :(

Want to thank all who replied, it was a great help.  This morning I went
down to Riley Auto parts and they had a small Vinyl repair kit by Permatex.

Bought it, brought it home and carefully read the instructions.  Seemed
easy enough if I took my time.

The hardest part was tucking a small piece of the provided 'backing
cloth' under the vinyl, using the thin plastic spatula provided, then
glue it with the provided glue (clear like the 'Duco airplane cement' of
old. The cut edges were already separating a bit due to the pressure of
the foam rubber under it.  No way to close the cut so that the two edges
would meet well, and still do the patch job.

After letting the cement dry 4 hours (per instructions) I proceeded to
patch the hole and spread some of the patch material over the
surrounding area. The patch material consists of a number of small
plastic 'pots' containing different colors of the patch material, can be
mixed for custom colors.  As the armrest is black that was easy, just
used the black pot.

After smoothing the patch material of the repaired area the next step is
to lay a piece of the 'textured paper' (several different patterns) over
the patch material and then heat/rub it to cure the patch material.
That is very important as heat is the curing agent!

To do this, they provide a special tool, a small wood dowel with a metal
disk on the end.  They suggest heating the disk with a flatiron set on
the highest heat, rub the disk over the paper and repeat until cured .

As I was doing this on my workbench, which has a SMD solder rework
station with hot air gun, I used that to heat the disk, heating it,
rubbing the paper, heating it and so forth.

Next step is to carefully peel the paper off and check to see if it's
cured, if it isn't, repeat the above step with the paper.  In my case
for the second round I chose to CAREFULLY heat the area directly with
the hot air gun (no nozzle), keeping it far enough away so as to not
melt the vinyl.  That worked very well.

RESULTS:  it doesn't look professional, the paper didn't do the best job
of texturing it. Doesn't look bad, just not perfect.  Still better than
the cut which likely would have grown with time. I REALLY think that in
this case the results would have been better if I hadn't used the paper,
but rather used the heat gun to directly cure the vinyl, it was very
smooth and nice looking before I put the paper on it and did it their
way. . .

--
73 From "The Beaconeer's Lair"
Specializing in DXing NDBs (Longwave Beacons)
Phil, KO6BB,  http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/
The KO6BB Site Index - QSL.net<http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/>
www.qsl.net
Hello, my name is Philip and you have found the home-page of Amateur Radio Station KO6BB. These pages cover some of my various interests, including Amateur (Ham) Radio, home-brewing (building) radio equipment, Radio Navigation Beacons (NDB's), my personal radio beacon KO6BB/B, Old Time Radio (OTR ...


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SDR:        Softrock Ensemble II LF (built from a kit 2017).

ACC:   HOMEBREW  LF-MF Pre-Amp, 8Hz Audio Filter.
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ANTENNAS: 88 foot Long Ladder-line fed dipole, 35 feet AGL for MW/SW.
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