[Boatanchors] Another (OT) question about the AR-10 Ringo antenna

[Phil]

Sorry about these OT questions, but there are a lot of knowledgeable 
people here.

The AR-10 Ringo and coax arrived today and I assembled the bottom 
section per the instructions.  No problem, it went together well.

Since it's aluminum I DID use some Ox-Gard grease between the mating 
surfaces of the ring etc.

The questions:

1. Would it be advisable to either brush on some "liquid tape" or spray 
some on the joints (I have both) bolts/nuts etc, or is that likely to 
cause more problems than it fixes in the long term.  I'm not in either a 
high humidity or coastal area where salt is a problem.

2.  I'm thinking that I may go down and buy some stainless steel self 
threading screws and "secure" each telescoping section as I assemble it, 
and not rely just on the clamping action of the hose clamps. That is, 
all except the top section, I not screw it together 'just in case' I 
want to move it to another part of the band some day.   Does that sound 
like a good idea?

3.  At the same time I'll probably use some of that "Ox-Gard grease 
where each section telescopes together.  It doesn't say to, but when I 
put up my Cushcraft 75/40M vertical (AR2?? don't recall the model) many 
years ago they provided grease for that one.  That antenna is long gone now.

Cushcraft even supplied a nice coax connector 'boot' for the coax 
feedline that they say put on your coax.  Only problem is. . . I bought 
a pre-assembled cable with connectors already on it, and I'm not about 
to cut the cable so I can put the boot on.  I'll just seal it well with 
the Scotch 2228 Moisture sealing tape and Scotch "Super 88" vinyl tape I 
bought for my Tram dual band antenna.

*******************************

The coax also arrived today (both antenna and coax were bought from 
HRO).  I'm impressed with the quality of the "ABR Industries" RG8x coax 
(from what I can see).  It's supposed to be USA made, UV proof, 
contamination proof and OK for direct burial, has both foil & 95% braid 
shielding.  It's also more flexible than most of the other RG8x cables 
that I have around here.  Of course it cost somewhat more than I would 
have paid for some Chi-Com stuff from Amazon.  Now-a-days when I put an 
antenna up, I put it up to stay as it's getting too hard for me to 
pull-em-down and put-em-up without some help (though I think this Ringo 
will be a piece of cake).

-- 

73 From "The Beaconeer's Lair"
Specializing in DXing NDBs (Longwave Beacons)
Phil, KO6BB,  http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/

HF/LF RADIOS:
HOMEBREW: 7 Tube+Rect 1v3 Regenerative RX for LF (built 2015)
Icom:     R-75, Cascaded 250/125Hz CW-Filt, Panadapter. (~2009)
Icom:     IC-7200 Xceiver, DSP IF & filters (~2015).
Kenwood:  TS-450SAT Xceiver, cascaded 250/125Hz Inrad filters.
SDR:      Softrock Ensemble II LF (built from a kit 2015).

ACC:   HOMEBREW  LF-MF Pre-Amp, MFJ-993B HF Auto-Tuner.
        HOMEBREW  4 Port Antenna Multicoupler, Feeds 4 RX's.
AF Filters:  Timewave  DSP-599zx & HOMEBREW  8 Hz Filter.

ANTENNAS: 88 foot Long Ladder-line fed dipole, 35 feet AGL for MW/SW.
           Active Mini-Whip, 36 Feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
           37 foot "Low Noise Vertical", 11 feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.

Merced, Central California, 37, 18, 37N   120, 30, 6W CM97rh