[Boatanchors] Flux-Pen, sometimes the best tool on my bench
Phil
ko6bb1 at gmail.com
Sun May 1 20:55:35 EDT 2016
Hi All,
Hi, I posted the following to the Zenith TransOceanic group as that's
the radio I'm presently working on. But it's just as applicable (maybe
more-so) to working on Boatanchors.
*******************************
Right now I'm in the process of overhauling a Zenith Royal 7000
Transoceanic for a friend. I've done some of them in the past, so I'm
well familiar with them.
The 'Big two' capacitors were pretty much a piece of cake. Snip the
capacitor out, clean off the terminal posts and install the new ones,
which incidentally are MUCH smaller in size. I buy Radial Lead 'Lytic
caps in bulk, which is ideal for connecting to the solder lugs, even
though the originals are axial lead devices.
NOTE: I've also bought large assortments of "Poly" Caps, Ceramic Disks
etc in bulk, MUCH cheaper than onesies and twosies, and I have them when
I need them.
So far so good. Then I got to a couple where I snipped the lead off the
capacitor, leaving enough lead to do a nice neat "hook" connection with
the original leads. I REFUSE to try to remove the original leads from
those hollow Solder lug things (like small hollow tubes) that Zenith
used to group a bunch of connections together. The likelihood of heat
damaging something is too great.
To make the "hook connections" I gently scraped the original wire and
tried to tin it. It just didn't want to "tin" nicely, and I want nice,
clean professional looking solder joints (I take pride in them).
*************************************
THEN, I thought of the Solder Flux pens I bought when I was building my
Softrock SDR receiver. It has a lot of small surface mount IC's etc and
I wanted to be SURE everything got soldered up nicely, or cleaned up if
I needed to solder wick some connections (I find the flux on solder wick
is sometimes dried out and not completely effective, I first coat it
with the 'pen', works VERY well). When I ordered the Softrock, I also
ordered two of the Flux-Pens (MG Chemicals Rosin Flux Pen Cat. No.
835-P) from Amazon. There are a LOT of different kinds on the market,
MG Chemicals is a reputable company. Two turned out to be way overkill,
I'm still on the first one, the other package unopened.
So I first gently scraped the wire, then used the Flux-Pen and coated
the wire, waited a few moments and then tinned it. It did an absolutely
WONDERFUL job! The solder connections look really good.
*************************************
The beauty of the Flux Pen is it doesn't leave a lot of residue, doesn't
run all over the place and isn't nearly as messy as trying to use a
small bottle of Rosin Flux! I have found it useful in a number of
projects, it really makes a difference.
--
73 From "The Beaconeer's Lair"
Phil, KO6BB
http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/ (Web Page)
HF/LF RADIOS:
Grundigs: S-350 (~2006), G6 (2011) & S450DLX (2014).
HOMEBREW: 7 Tube+Rect 1v3 Regenerative RX for LF (built 2015)
Icom: IC-735 Transceiver (~1990).
Icom: R-75, Cascaded 250/125Hz CW-Filt, Panadapter. (~2009)
Icom: IC-7200 Transceiver (~2015).
R-Shack: DX-380 digital portable (~1990).
SDR: Softrock Ensemble II LF (built from a kit 2015).
Zenith: Royal-7000 Transoceanic Portable (~1968).
ACC: HOMEBREW LF-MF Pre-Amp, MFJ-993B HF Auto-Tuner.
HOMEBREW 4 Port Multicoupler, Feeds Antenna to 4 RX's.
HOMEBREW 8 Hz Audio Filter.
Timewave DSP-599zx Audio Filter.
Behringer 1202fx Audio Mixer (for mixing/routing audio).
ANTENNAS: 88 foot Long Ladder-line fed dipole, 35 feet AGL for MW/SW.
Active Mini-Whip, 36 Feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
37 foot "Low Noise Vertical", 11 feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
Merced, Central California, 37, 18, 37N 120, 30, 6W CM97rh
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