[Boatanchors] BC-223- Fixing a Rotted Pot Metal Casting. Maybe.

[rbethman]

The micro beads are also used with epoxy and shredded fiberglass, in the 
building of fairings on Aircraft Kits, such as the GlassAir.  They also 
use what we would call Blue Builder's foam to create ribs in the wing 
structure.

Bob - N0DGN

On 4/11/2014 8:24 PM, hwhall at compuserve.com wrote:
>> ...so wouldn't do for really big defects...
> Modelers sometimes fill larger gaps with an adhesive mixed with a filler, sometimes nearly microscopic glass beads or other materials. Usually they are using Superglue type adhesives. Perhaps the Threadlocker could be mixed with metal filings or some of the modeling beads to get a gapfilling adhesive. Just a thought...
>
> Wayne
> WB4OGM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Stinson <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>
> To: boatanchors <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>; milsurplus <milsurplus at mailman.qth.net>; mrca <mrca at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Fri, Apr 11, 2014 3:11 pm
> Subject: [Boatanchors] BC-223- Fixing a Rotted Pot Metal Casting.  Maybe.
>
>
> Under the bottom-front cover of the BC-233 transmitter,
> between the ganged "MO" and "PA" capacitors,
> there is a "pot-metal" casting that holds the end
> bearing for the tuning shaft
> (this photo used with thanks to Dennis, W7QHO).
> The green arrow points to the casting:
>
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/BC223bottom.jpg
>
> There is a bar at the bottom of the casting that connects
> between the two capacitor housings.
> A "J"-shaped post extends from this bar to hold
>   the rear bearing of the tuning shaft.
> This casting is "pot metal" and in mine, it was "rotten."
> The "J" had broken from the bar and also split
> at the inside bend.  Here is a photo of what I found:
>
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3078.JPG
>
> A closer look at the metal rot:
>
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3073.JPG
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3074.JPG
>
> These piece were very fragile and crumbly.
>
> Here's the end of the tuning shaft with the pieces
> removed:
>
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3072.JPG
>
> A gentleman I know who has repaired hundreds of engine
> blocks for a major oil field contractor told me about a
> "Locktite" product.  It is a very thin, green liquid that is
> designed to be applied to already-mated bolts, nuts and
> screws etc.  It "wicks"' into the junction between the
> fasteners getting into the smallest spaces and pores
> where if forms a hard, glass-like binder between
> the two metals.  He said he used this to seal
> hair-line cracks and fractures in metals.
> Here is the "Permatex" version of this product:
>
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3076.JPG
>
> It's not cheap; this little bottle was $8.
> But it only take a couple of drops to work.
> The application notes for this
> product, in .pdf format. are here:
>
> http://www.permatex.com/component/documents/?view=tds&format=raw&filename=29000.pdf&market=automotive
>
> I infused the "rotten" parts with this product and
> let them set over night.  The product worked
> as claimed.  I can press and squeeze the pieces with
> my fingers without bits crumbling away.  Not likely
> to be as strong as "new," but better than what I had
> and likely to serve.  Here are close-up photos
> of the product cured in the metal cracks:
>
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3080.JPG
> http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/BC-223/IMG_3084.JPG
>
> As you can see, the product "wicked" into even the
> smallest cracks.  It's speced for filling only up
> to 5-thousandths, so wouldn't do for really big defects
> but it appears- so far- to be very helpful with bad
> pot metal.
> I've got the two pieces of the "J" epoxied
> and will epoxy it back to the bottom bar this evening.
> We'll see how it works out.
>
> GL OM ES 73 DE Dave AB5S
>
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