[Boatanchors] Desoldering Components

[james.liles at comcast.net]

Good point Dave:

If you don't own a Hakko 808 ---- de-soldering is drudge.

The magic about the 808 is when you de-solder a joint, you can then EASILY 
unwrap the wire from the lug without heat.  If you don't believe this is 
possible, you havent used an 808.  It has incredible suction compared to the 
tube attached versions.

If it wasn't for the 808 I'd be tack soldering.  Also never had phenolic 
damage.  Been using it for years.  Remember it draws air through the joint 
as the solder flows.  Probably less damaging than a soldering iron.

Kindest regards Jim K9AXN

------------------------------- ORIGINAL 
MESSAGE -------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:41:24 -0500
From: "Dave Harmon" <k6xyz at sbcglobal.net>
To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Desoldering Components
Message-ID: <001c01ce4cf5$a1de4500$e59acf00$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

All you guys that think laying a component wire against a solder lug and
'soldering' it should have to repair the hacked KWM-2 that I had to fix the
other day.
I'm still mad about it.
There were literally dozens of parts that had been removed then tacked back
without removing the old leads or sucking off the old solder.

As far as TEK testing this kind of solder joint....well they didn't have to
follow behind some hambone that replaces components this way.

As far as removing old, wrapped lead components....I use only dental picks,
flush cuts and an old worn out large GC solder sucker bulb.
I was looking around for another one the other day and I can't find the
larger size. The newer much small bulbs look pretty wimpy to me.
As far as the Hakko unit is concerned.....I dunno....sounds like a lot of
money to me.....yeah I know....I'll forget about the money when I use it.

Removing wrapped components definitely is an art but after some practice it
is pretty easy.....it's all in the technique.
I never use solder wick....only the bulb.
And...you have to have to use a large enough soldering iron to get the job
done.
A 40w iron is not big enough...I use a 60w iron most of the time and it is
just barely enough.
Other leads that are on a ground lug attached to the chassis require a lot
more heat and a larger chisel tip....I have a 120w American Beauty style
iron made by Weller...not a pistol grip.

Dave Harmon
K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
Sperry, Ok.