[Boatanchors] start capacitor

[Jack Taylor]

Guys, tnx for all the useful suggestions.  Actually when I installed the HAM 
II some 25 years ago I only had on-hand a 7 wire cable.  Review
of the diagram showed that the start capacitor doesn't connect to anything 
in the control box but goes directly to terminals 4 and 8 on the rotator.
Thus I connected the capacitor up on the tower which allowed use of the 7 
wire cable. I have a supply of MIL grade electrolytic's and am
hoping to make use of a couple of them if they could be wired to perform the 
task.

73 de Jack

-----Original Message----- 
From: manualman at juno.com
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:39 AM
To: grimm at sbc.edu
Cc: boatanchors at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] start capacitor

5 wires, 6, wires, or 8 wires; the cost differential isn't that great. It
also assumes that you have the rotor down on the bench and are willing to
chase all the bearings on the bench and floor when you disassemble the
rotor.

Pete, wa2cwa
http://www.manualman.com


On Fri, 3 May 2013 13:11:39 -0400 Kenneth Grimm <grimm at sbc.edu> writes:
Since this is a sealed capacitor, it would be a good candidate for
mounting at the rotor instead of in the control box...thereby reducing
the number of wires needed in the control cable.




On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 10:39 AM, Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com> wrote:

I normally use

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Motor-Start-Capacitor-2MDR4?Pid=s
earch


in my CDE boxes.  They are physically larger than the original starting
capacitor but there is plenty of room in the control box.  Since the
voltage rating is much higher than the original capacitor, these
capacitors last a lot longer.  Also, they are cheaper than the
"originals" sold by mfj and the various rotor repairers.

Glen, K9STH


Website:  http://k9sth.com
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