[Boatanchors] Repairing Ceramic

[J. Forster]

If it's a clean break, you do not want a filled adhesive, which widens the
glue line.

YMMV,

-John

==========


> Loctite 1C two part high temperature epoxy
> Sets up to tacky very quickly, 24 hours to strength
> White color, looks exactly like ceramic or porcelein
> Hard as all get out when set
> Withstands imersion in boiling water!
> We have used it to cement thermocouples to electric water heating elements
> for lab measurements. Pretty good if it can do that and survive.
> Paul K0UYA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J. Forster" <jfor at quikus.com>
> To: "Bob Sullivan" <robert at isquare.com>
> Cc: "Boat Anchors List" <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2012 3:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Repairing Ceramic
>
>
> I would not use quick set epoxy as it might thicken before fully flowed.
>
> Option 1:  Corning made some special ceramic glue for repairing china. It
> could be used on teapots and cups and would survive the dishwasher. If
> that is still available, it'd be my first choice.
>
> Option 2: Use a clear, unfilled, two part, slower setting epoxy. Warm the
> pieces a bit before applying the epoxy so it flows better. Try and make
> the glue line as thin as you possibly can. Clamp, or use rubber bands to
> hold it together. Remove any surface excess with alcohol or acetone while
> unset.
>
> FWIW,
>
> -John
>
> ===============
>
>
>> Listmates,
>>
>> I have a cracked ceramic (steatite?) support on the large plate tuning
>> capacitor in a Viking 500. It's a nice "clean" crack. I would like
>> suggestions for the best glue to use for repair. I would assume quick
>> set
>> epoxy would be okay but thought I better ask ...
>>
>> 73, Bob
>> WØYVA
>> http://www.isquare.com/personal_pages/ras-hardware.htm
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>
>
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