[Boatanchors] MFP (was BC-342

[J. Forster]

It may well be that the MFP coating contains solids and a solvent. After
application, the solvent evaporates and the solids polymerize. After
polymerization, the material is no longer soluable in the original
solvent. In such cases, a far more aggressive solvent may be needed to
remove the set-up coating.

Certainly modern epoxy paints are like that. You can thin them and clean
up with a common solvent (xylene, acetone, MEK) but once set are nearly
impossible to dissolve.

FWIW,

-John

================



> Richard,
>
> I don't.  All that I recall is that I only turned up one vendor and that
> it
> was purpose mixed, not a generic.  A similar search today again turned up
> MIL-V-173C as the late 20th Century spec.  But not the after-application
> solvent for removal.
>
> To maybe answer another question or comment today (about arsenic), my
> search also turned up a Dr. Barry Ornitz reply on a list I'm not familar
> with.
> He does not mention arsenic.
>
> *********************
> From: "Barry Ornitz" <ornitz at usa.net>
> Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
> Subject: Re: voltage rating of enameled wire?
> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 20:29:53 -0500
>
> "Gene Warner" <warn at ridgenet.net> wrote in message
> news:938ea7$i2v$2 at delphi.ridgenet.net...
>> Wasn't the stuff applied to bare copper wires for motor and tranformer
>> windings actually called Glyptal? At least most all Govt. Specs called
>> for it. I recall ontime looking up the Glyptal Specification and I think
>> the dialectric strength exceeded plain electrical varnish by quite a few
>> hundreds of volts. The Glyptal I am familar with came out of the can red
>> in color. It is also what gives gives the innards of well used govt.
>> electronics that distinctive oder. They even sprayed the stuff on
>> pre-insulated under chassis wiring primarily to tropicalize the
>> equipment. Perhaps if Zenith and other mfgs. had put it on their rubber
>> insulated wiring we restorers wouldn't be
>> gnashing out teeth today over crumbling insulation.
>> R\Gene
>
> Glyptal is merely a trade name for an alkyd varnish.  The name comes from
> GLYcerin and PhThALic acid which were combined in a condensation
> polymerization to produce the raw resin.  Its voltage rating is no higher
> than regular alkyd varnish.  The red color is often obtained by adding red
> lead.
>
> The tropical coating is known as MPF, moisture and fungus proofing.  It
> was
> originally an alkyd varnish to which had been added copper naphthnate as
> an
> anti-fungus agent.
> Today if you want to recreate this look, especially with military
> equipment, use urethane varnish to which has been added some yellow and
> green dye.
>
>  *******************************
>
> In a message dated 2/23/2011 9:57:17 AM Central Standard Time,
> 1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com writes:
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <WA5CAB at cs.com>
>> To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>;
>> <boatanchors at theporch.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 7:50 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] BC-342
>>
>>
>> >Some years ago, I researched MFP solvent.  And found two
>> >or three sources.
>> >Unfortunately the minimum order was something like 20
>> >gallons and cost
>> >several hundred dollars.  The only practical removal
>> >method is mechanical.  And
>> >after half a century the best tool I've found is one of
>> >those soldering
>> >accessories marketed under tradenames like "Solder
>> >Helper".  The ones with a
>> >hexagonal wood handle.  Out of one end sticks a metal rod
>> >with a flat on one
>> >side and a tapered and rounded point.  Rod may be straight
>> >or bent at about 30
>> >degrees.  The bent one usually works best.  I've seen them
>> >in two rod
>> >diameters, about 3/16" and about 1/8" diameter.  Out of
>> >the other end is another
>> >rod of the same diameter terminated in a brush or a slot
>> >(for bending wire)
>> >or maybe other things.
>> >
>>       Have you any memory of what the solvent was or was it
>> not a generic one? I have never found anything that takes
>> the stuff off easily. Paint rememover will eventually get it
>> off but it may take many hours of repeated application,
>> certainly not very practical for wiring. Most of the time
>> the soldering iron will burn it off but then you must clean
>> the residue.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Richard Knoppow
>> Los Angeles
>> WB6KBL
>> dickburk at ix.netcom.com
>>
>
> Robert Downs - Houston
> wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
> MVPA 9480
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