[Boatanchors] Radio Shop Glues and Making Penetrating Epoxy

[Carl]

Good info Larry, thanks. Especially on the Zeniths!

Ive used fiberglass resin to repair rotted window sills. Thin very 
slightly with Acetone if necessary, pour or brush so every crack gets 
filled. Belt or hand sand smooth and give a coat of primer. Then a coat 
of Bondo (Evercoat Rage is great)  to fill voids. Shape as necessary, 
sand smooth, give two coats of primer sealer and top coat with your 
favorite latex. Sills I did 10+ years ago look as new.

The Evercoat Rage also works well to smooth damaged or drilled wood, 
nail holes, pitted chassis, small holes in rack panels & chassis, and a 
lot more.

Use regular epoxy to hold Snap In electrolytics on amplifier and other 
power supply boards that had twist locks.

Glue for affixing mirrors to windshields works great for bonding two 
shiny metals or glass to glass.

Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BLIMPY" <blimpboy at sonic.net>
To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 5:15 PM
Subject: [Boatanchors] Radio Shop Glues and Making Penetrating Epoxy


> Pentrating Epoxy
>
> To thin epoxy - say to saturate wood, paper, or seal same- dilute with 
> ACETONE.
>
> Acetone is also the solvent of choice to get the crap off yourself 
> ( ditto super-glue when you glue yourself together)
> Alcohol being a polar solvent.. won't do the job.
>
> For example.. say  you want to make a cheap transmitter coil form from 
> a toilet paper roll - or paper tape core.
>
> Get some nice   2 part "liquid" epoxy at your local ACE hardware 
> store.  Mix qty needed, then thin with actetone. Apply with cheap 
> small brush and allow to soak in as needed,.  This will seal the 
> material, and make it considerably stronger, not to mention moisture 
> proof..
> ( try this on some really rotten wood to see how much stronger it 
> makes things ! )
>
>
> Barge Cement  - Multi-Purpose Glue for Porous Materials
>
> A cheap multi-purpose glue which works well on Porous Meterials is 
> Barge Cement.  This works on ceramic, paper, leather, and most 
> plastics.
> It is solvent based, and will eat into plastic.. so not for cosmetic 
> repairs.  This is glorified rubber cement. But far better.
> It will bond porous and non porous materials together...such as cloth 
> to metal.
>
> Bonding to Metal
>
> Silicone rubber will attach almost all items...to metal chassis... 
> except Teflon.
>
> Say you want to re-cap a vintage radio using " Jap Cap" 
> electrolytics - leaving the old cans in place .  Good practice often 
> dictates that the new caps not be left hanging by thier leads alone. 
> A small dab of silicone rubber will attach the capacitor to the 
> underside or side of the chassis securely.  Easily removeable without 
> a trace.
>
> Small relays, ceramic stand-offs and other items can also be added 
> without drilling any holes.   Peel off, or use razor blade to remove.
> Gravity wont defeat this stuff.  Cannot be removed from porous 
> materials like wood, unglazed ceramic, cloth, rubber.
>
> Making Custom Dial Belts.
>
> Neoperene O-rings are available in any size at hardware and 
> tractor/hydraulic parts stores.
> You can make custom dial belts by cutting the O-ring to size ( 
> slightly small for tension - they stretch) .
> Cut with a sharp razor blade.
> Cut Square !
>
> End glue with Super Glue ( glue in place - no need to dissasemble ! ) 
> and bingo !
> This bond is as strong as the rest of the O-ring.  Use fingers or 
> needle nose pliers as needed. Eyeball is good enough.
>
> Even works in motorized Zeniths !
>
> My guess is it would work on that damn gazillion dollar Hallicrafters 
> RCVR.
>
> Styrene Aircraft Model Cement
>
> The model cement used on plastic car models... will also work on 
> porous material... like the ferrite antenna.
> Dries very quickly. Stinks.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>