[Boatanchors] Re: Boatanchors Digest, Vol 59, Issue 27

Sat Dec 13 19:08:51 EST 2008

I have a Harvey Wells TBS50 that uses Tinneman? nuts. These slip over 
the panel hole and accept sheet metal screws.

boatanchors-request at mailman.qth.net wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. FS: FT-101EX Parts (Gary)
>    2. FS: Collins 516F-2 Supply (Gary)
>    3. RE: How to repair stripped panel threads (Kim Herron)
>    4. Re: How to repair stripped panel threads (Robert Nickels)
>    5. Re: How to repair stripped panel threads (WA5CAB at cs.com)
>    6. Re: How to repair stripped panel threads (J Forster)
>    7. Fw: stripped holes (Brian Harris)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 07:37:25 -0500
> From: "Gary" <xfrmrs at roadrunner.com>
> Subject: [Boatanchors] FS: FT-101EX Parts
> To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <DDF13D6AD54B44A1BB42D43E99933AB2 at GaryPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
>
>
> I have a bunch of parts for the FT-101EX. If you would like a list, please 
> email me. What mite you need?
> Regards,
> Gary 
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 07:48:37 -0500
> From: "Gary" <xfrmrs at roadrunner.com>
> Subject: [Boatanchors] FS: Collins 516F-2 Supply
> To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <F6B8986D106444CF8244897C21A17CC1 at GaryPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> This is the last one I have. Professionally rebuilt, nice cabinet.  Tubes 
> tested, transformer tested. One of the chokes is new. I have several 
> pictures for those interested. $300.00 plus shipping.
> Regards,
> Gary 
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 11:11:29 -0500
> From: "Kim Herron" <kim.herron at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: RE: [Boatanchors] How to repair stripped panel threads
> To: <WA5CAB at cs.com>, <texasroadrunner at comcast.net>,
> 	<boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <1F4D0BD63DB443B0AF35EB426B55093D at HPa550y>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Yup, Heli-Coils work in thicker stock, but in the case of the Navigator,
> it's sheet metal.  Helicoils won't work in sheet metal.  If memory serves,
> that rig (and many others) use #6 sheet metal screws.  The easy fix is to
> put #8's in place of them all.  The more difficult fix (ant probably better
> ) is to use threaded inserts in the holes.  You need the special tool to
> install the inserts and then you've got to use machine screws.  The kind of
> insert I'm talking about is found in Collins gear and there about 5 or 6
> different systems out there to do just this kind of repair.  The quick and
> dirty way to do this is to epoxy a nut to the back side of the case.  Let it
> set for a while (day or two) and then use machine screws.  Don't over
> tighten them.  If the cabinet flange is wide enough, you can use a speed
> nut.  It slides over the flange, and the sheet metal screw threads into it.
> But on the Johnson (and Heath) gear, there usually isn't enough room to do
> that.  The top side of the speed nut sticks out beyond the edge of the
> panel. 
>  
>  
>
> Kim Herron W8ZV
> www.goldenradioservice.com
> kim.herron at sbcglobal.net
> 1-616-677-3706 
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: boatanchors-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:boatanchors-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of WA5CAB at cs.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 1:39 AM
> To: texasroadrunner at comcast.net; boatanchors at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] How to repair stripped panel threads
>
>
> John's reply later in this thread is absolutely correct.  The helicoil is
> the preferred method in industry and the military for repairing stripped
> threads.  I've used them successfully down to #2-56 UNC.  The helicoils
> themselves are cheap, and in each thread size come in several lengths.  The
> dollars are in the special tap and the installer and drive tang breaker.
>
> A helicoil is a length of almost (*) square bar coiled up such that the ID
> is slightly greater than the original thread's minor diameter.  The special
> tap has the same pitch as the original thread but a pitch diameter equal to
> the original plus the radial diagonal dimension of the bar.  You drill out
> the original tapped hole with the correct diameter bit, run the special tap
> through the hole, and screw the helicoil into it.  The helicoil has a drive
> tang bent across the inner end that must be broken off after insertion.  If
> the length of the helicoil exceeds the panel thickness, it is best to cut
> the excess off with something like a Dremel tool and abrasive disk.
>
> (*) The bar is actually a "Squashed" square, as standard V-form threads are
> 60, not 90 degree.
>
> There are some other methods.  Usable in sheet metal is the nut-sert, which
> is somewhat similar to a hollow pop-rivet.  The drawbacks are that it takes
> a relatively large diameter hole and leaves what amounts to a flat washer on
> the outside surface.  Two others come to mind but are generally only usable
> in aluminum or brass castings and wood.
>
> In a message dated 12/12/2008 11:30:44 PM Central Standard Time,
> texasroadrunner at comcast.net writes: 
>
>
> I'm sure this subject has come up before, but couldn't find any hits via 
> google groups.
> Wondering what folks on this list have used to repair stripped threads? 
> I've experienced way too many over tightened fasteners which attach BA 
> panels to their chassis.  Currently I have a bunch of panel screws on a 
> Navigator- some are too loose due to over tightning.    One gent suggested 
> dipping and curing toothpicks in Devcon epoxy and then placing them into the
>
> hole before screw insertion.  Short of welding (JB?) a nut on the back end 
> of the threads, looking for other ideas out there.
>
>
>
>
> Robert Downs - Houston
> wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
> MVPA 9480 
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 10:28:11 -0600
> From: Robert Nickels <ranickel at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] How to repair stripped panel threads
> To: Kim Herron <kim.herron at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: boatanchors at mailman.qth.net, WA5CAB at cs.com
> Message-ID: <4943E29B.7060504 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Kim Herron wrote:
>   
>> The more difficult fix (ant probably better ) is to use threaded 
>> inserts in the holes.  You need the special tool to install the 
>> inserts and then you've got to use machine screws.  The kind of insert 
>> I'm talking about is found in Collins gear and there about 5 or 6 
>> different systems out there to do just this kind of repair.
>>     
> The original manufacturer of clinch nuts was Penn Engineering, and their 
> trade name was "Pem nuts".   They do require an arbor press or something 
> similar (a drill press should work) to press the nuts into the sheet 
> metal.   You can see a variety of styles by searching "Pem style nuts" 
> at http://www.mcmaster.com/    They're about 7 bucks for a package of 50.
>
> 73, Bob W9RAN
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:01:30 EST
> From: WA5CAB at cs.com
> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] How to repair stripped panel threads
> To: boatanchors at mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <bc5.3c9c186a.3675446a at cs.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> OK.  I didn't pay any attention to what the radio was or that it would have 
> sheet metal screws.  In that case I would probably use #6 speed nuts if the 
> cabinet lip dimensions allow.  You will need to drill out the existing hole to 
> about 3/16" dia. so be sure there's enough room to install the speed nut before 
> you start drilling.  You can also get them from MCM but I didn't check prices.
>
> The danger in using a nut glued to the back side of the lip is that if 
> (probably when) it breaks loose, you won't be able to get the radio apart again 
> unless you can reach the nut through some other opening in the cabinet.
>
> On the Pem nuts, sometimes you can use a screw with nut run up on it to start 
> pulling them into the hole and then finish with a C-clamp.  But to work 
> securely, the dimensions of the hole are moderately critical.  Else you can end up 
> with the same problem as with the glued on nut.
>
> In a message dated 12/13/2008 10:28:26 AM Central Standard Time, 
> ranickel at comcast.net writes: 
>   
>> Kim Herron wrote:
>>     
>>> The more difficult fix (ant probably better ) is to use threaded 
>>> inserts in the holes.  You need the special tool to install the 
>>> inserts and then you've got to use machine screws.  The kind of insert 
>>> I'm talking about is found in Collins gear and there about 5 or 6 
>>> different systems out there to do just this kind of repair.
>>>       
>> The original manufacturer of clinch nuts was Penn Engineering, and their 
>> trade name was "Pem nuts".   They do require an arbor press or something 
>> similar (a drill press should work) to press the nuts into the sheet 
>> metal.   You can see a variety of styles by searching "Pem style nuts" 
>> at http://www.mcmaster.com/    They're about 7 bucks for a package of 50.
>>
>>     
>
> Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
> wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
> MVPA 9480
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:09:39 -0500
> From: J Forster <jfor at quik.com>
> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] How to repair stripped panel threads
> To: WA5CAB at cs.com
> Cc: boatanchors at mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <4943FA63.A746A90F at quik.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> PEM nuts are critical v. hole diameter. I have had some success with
> epoxy to hold a loose PEM nut in place. Keep the epoxy clear of the
> threads. If the PEM nut is loose, you can use a screw and oversized
> washer to hold it in place while the epoxy sets up.
>
> -John
>
> ==============
>
> WA5CAB at cs.com wrote:
>
>   
>> OK.  I didn't pay any attention to what the radio was or that it would
>> have sheet metal screws.  In that case I would probably use #6 speed
>> nuts if the cabinet lip dimensions allow.  You will need to drill out
>> the existing hole to about 3/16" dia. so be sure there's enough room
>> to install the speed nut before you start drilling.  You can also get
>> them from MCM but I didn't check prices.
>>
>> The danger in using a nut glued to the back side of the lip is that if
>> (probably when) it breaks loose, you won't be able to get the radio
>> apart again unless you can reach the nut through some other opening in
>> the cabinet.
>>
>> On the Pem nuts, sometimes you can use a screw with nut run up on it
>> to start pulling them into the hole and then finish with a C-clamp.
>> But to work securely, the dimensions of the hole are moderately
>> critical.  Else you can end up with the same problem as with the glued
>> on nut.
>>     
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 10:24:37 -0800 (PST)
> From: Brian Harris <cosmophone at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Boatanchors] Fw: stripped holes
> To: boatanchors at mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <63234.84910.qm at web62108.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
> In the case of the Navigator and similar equipment, J or U nuts may be the easiest solution.
>  
> http://www.mrgusa.com/pdfs/74-77unut.pdf
>  
> Brian Harris
> Amateur Radio Station WA5UEK
> phone 214-763-5977
> email cosmophone at yahoo.com
>
>
>       
>
>
> End of Boatanchors Digest, Vol 59, Issue 27
> *******************************************
>   