GB> Re: [Boatanchors] PL-259 Soldering
DW Holtman
tubestuff at comcast.net
Fri Oct 12 09:59:06 EDT 2007
Hello,
The Wireman sells a paperback book with a section on attaching PL259's. It
is in my opinion the best way to do it. The pictures and descriptions are
outstanding. It can be located at
http://thewireman.com/wirebook.html
Hope this helps. I have no affiliation with this company, just use their
products.
Best,
DW Holtman
WBtSSN
http://www.heavymetalradios.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wiley" <jwiley at alaska.net>
Cc: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>; "Glowbugs reflector"
<glowbugs at piobaire.mines.uidaho.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: GB> Re: [Boatanchors] PL-259 Soldering
> All - this is a bit long winded, but it works.
>
>
> For a "bulletproof" PL-259 connection, try this:
>
> Tools needed: Propane torch, box knife, wire cutters, solder, soldering
> iron
>
>
> Trim off about 2 or 3 inches of the outer plastic sheath, then tin the
> outer braid completely. When it is cool (blow on it with an air gun or
> just wave it around for a while). Cut the tinned braid to the length of
> the inside of the PL-259 barrel (hold it up next to the barrel for
> sizing). I use a box-knife, but a tubing connector works just as well.
> When cutting the braid, I carefully continue the cut so as to cut the
> inner insulation almost all the way down to the center conductor, being
> sure not to nick the conductor - but if you do the next step will fix this
> problem. You should have enough center conductor protruding to completely
> go through the center pin with a bit extra. Tin the center conductor
> completely (flow solder along the entire length of the exposed wire. The
> soldering process will effectively repair any nicks as long as the strands
> are not completely cut through - in fact, even if a strand or two is
> broken, as long as they are still in place, the solder will correct the
> problem. When the solder has cooled, place the cable in the connector
> body, and trim the center conductor flush with the end of the center pin.
> Solder the center conductor to the pin. Again, when cool, put the cable
> assembly into a vise (or something else to hold it still) with the cable
> protruding out about 4" on the connector side. Place things so one of the
> holes in the connector body is "up". Soldering the center conductor helps
> keep everything in place while soldering the shield in the next step.
>
>
> Now, comes the torch. I use a standard "Bernz-o-matic" hardware store
> variety propane torch. The idea here is to get in with enough heat to do
> the job, and then get out before the rest of the parts get hot enough to
> damage something. With solder in one hand, and the torch in the other,
> heat the connector body for 7 to 10 seconds. Put the inner bright blue
> cone of flame directly on the connector body at transition between the
> "holes" and the front portion of the connector. Next, place the solder
> into one of the holes and press gently. As soon as it melts, remove the
> heat. Keep the flame directly on connector until the solder flows
> easily. Do not get the flame on the ends of the connector. Once the
> solder starts to flow, remove the flame. You might need to "kiss" the
> connector body with the torch flame a couple of times while adding solder.
> Be sure to use ample solder. I use enough so that the excess starts to
> flow out the "bottom" hole. Then put the torch away, and turn it off!
> It is easy to relight for the next connector, and you really don't want to
> take the chance of knocking a lit torch over onto your bench.
>
> The time it takes to turn off the torch and remove the cable from the vise
> is about the right amount of time to allow the solder to set up. Now you
> can cool the connector by rolling it around on a wet cloth. When it stops
> steaming, let it cool the rest of the way in air. Use a compressed air
> blow gun if you have one, otherwise just wave it around or blow on it, or
> use a hot-air gun on "cool". Just an afterthought - If you do this
> right, and trim the outer braid so just a bit of the plastic insulation is
> still inside the rear of the connector body when everything is pushed
> together, the heat will melt the bit of sheath and make an almost water
> tight seal. I know, I know - the rest of the connector is not water
> tight, but this cannot hurt, can it? Now you have a connector and cable
> assembly that will never, ever, come apart. The 10 seconds or so of torch
> heat is much preferable to grinding on the connector for a minute or more
> with a low-powered pencil iron or a solder gun.
>
>
> There is a slightly different procedure for using RG-58 reduction adapters
> that works just as well. In that case, strip off about 2" of the outer
> sheath, and put inside the adapter until the plastic just comes to the
> "front" end of the adapter. Separate the braid into individual strands,
> and fan it out at the edge of the adapter. A "file carding tool" is
> excellent for this job. Trim the braid wires until they are almost flush
> with the sides of the adapter - they will be about 1/8" long at this
> point. Now, using a conventional soldering iron, carefully solder the
> braid wires to the very end of the adapter that is closest to the front.
> Do not solder any of the wires to the sides of the adapter.
>
> When the solder is cool, carefully trim the braid wires flush with the
> sides of the adapter. You should have an assembly that has just a small
> ring of soldered braid wires at the very front. Strip the center
> conductor, leaving about 1/8" of insulation, and tin the wires completely.
> Make a test fit. If the adapter will not screw into the PL-259 easily,
> you may have to file the soldered area slightly to allow the two parts to
> mate. Screw the adapter into the PL-259, and tighten with two pairs of
> "gas" pliers until they are very tight. Do not solder the adapter to the
> PL-259! It is not possible to get enough heat to make a good solder joint
> without melting the inner conductor! Of course, solder the center
> conductor to the PL-259 center pin, , but in this case only after the
> parts are screwed together.
>
> Good luck!
>
>
> - Jim, KL7CC
>
>
>
> Scott Johnson wrote:
>> I am somewhat confused. I have soldered all manner of PL-259, both
>> silver and nickel plated, and although the nickel alloy is not the
>> easiest metal to tin, it tins at least as well as brass. I have never
>> had a problem soldering the (pre-tinned) braid to the connector body.
>> What works best for me is a 1/8' chisel tip on a Metcal, or the chisel
>> style tip on a Weller gun. I use RA flux Kester .062" 63/37 solder. My
>> connectors always come out fine, and I do use a very we sponge or rag to
>> cool the connector, and I clean off the flux carefully afterwards, as it
>> is very hygroscopic and will hold moisture. BTW, you can still purchase
>> the Ag plated connectors, they are just pricier by a buck or so, but
>> probably worth it. I assume someone already mentioned pre-tinning the
>> braid, and trimming it to length with a tubing cutter?
>> regards,
>> Scott W7SVJ
>>
>> john wrote:
>>> I have been doing this for some time and it really works well. If you
>>> tin the newly exposed brass before beginning the process, it works even
>>> better. With a large iron (like American Beauty) with a lot of thermal
>>> mass, it makes soldering these things quite easy.
>>>
>>> I also would add dampening a sponge, so that when you're finished with
>>> the solder joint, you can cool the housing off by pressing it into the
>>> damp (not wet) sponge, minimizing the time the heat has to soak into the
>>> inner insulator, perhaps melting it.
>>>
>>> With a high thermal mass iron, it takes very little time for the housing
>>> to get to reflow temp (and thus less chance of melting the inner
>>> insulator sheath.
>>>
>>> Thanks Sandy!
>>> John K5MO
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> At 08:55 PM 10/11/2007, Sandy wrote:
>>>> Mike,
>>>> Many thanks for posting it someplace! It's not really my idea,
>>>> someone else told me about the trick years ago. Amphenol used to plate
>>>> the connectors with something that took solder ( silver, at one time)
>>>> but they plate them with something that is hard to "wet" with solder
>>>> now (with rosin core flux).
>>>> Hope this helps you guys like it's helped me over the years.
>>>>
>>>> 73,
>>>>
>>>> Sandy W5TVW
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "WE0H" <we0h at yahoo.com>
>>>> To: "Sandy" <ebjr37 at charter.net>
>>>> Cc: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>; "Glowbugs reflector"
>>>> <glowbugs at piobaire.mines.uidaho.edu>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 3:57 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] PL-259 modification...pic online now...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Here's the link to Sandy's picture.
>>>>> http://www.we0h.us/tmp/PL-259-Modification.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> WE0H
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>>>> Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database:
>>>>> 269.14.8/1063 - Release Date: 10/11/2007 9:11 AM
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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