[Boatanchors] breadboarding

[Ian Wilson]

Here is a cut and paste of an idea from Gary Johanson, WD4NKA. I have used
this technique with success on a number of projects (and I am mechanically
challenged, so if it works for me, it will work for anyone).

Food for thought. Oh, original was posted on the 'regenrx' Yahoo Group.

73, ian K3IMW

If you are wondering what to do for a chassis that is durable, which
can hold about 50 lbs of transformer iron . . . not that you'll need
that, but nice to know it can handle it . . . can be made from easy
to find materials and above all, inexpensive, look no further than
your local hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc.

This is a modification of the old '40s "Crate" or "Slat-board"
construction. Like the Crate, you use two hardwood endblocks.
Unlike the old school method, instead of using wooden slats spaced to
fit an octal socket between them, you use aluminium angles. These
angles not only provide durable metal shielding and a ground plane,
they also provide a front and rear apron. Normally available in
various thicknesses and sold in 8ft runs. 8 feet of angle will give
you an awful lot of chassis! Prices can run 8 to 16 bucks an 8ft
length, depending on mill thickness. Most of the larger hardware
outlets sell finished hardwood, too. I use poplar. Sealed hardwood
endblocks provide a handy, relatively insulating surface to mount
things like series variable capacitors, something not easily done on
a regular metal box.

1-1/2" angle stock can be spaced to accommodate octal sockets,
deck "twist" mount filter caps, transformer leads, and can be drilled
or punched for 7 or 9 pin sockets, so239 connectors, switches, and
smaller variable resistors or caps.

If you use stainless woodscrews and stain/varnish the wood endblocks,
the chassis can be very classy looking, too!

Breaking down the price of wood and aluminium angle stock, i'd say i
can build a 4x6 or even a 5 x 9 chassis for under 5 bucks. One that
would rival a steel chassis in strength. (i have a 400 watt power
supply built on one of these).

Front panels can be easily mounted to these chassis. The wooden
endblocks can be easily affixed within a cabinet, too.

I had been tossing the idea around of making several oak sided
chassis and making them generally available, but heck: make 'em
yerself! All it takes is a wood saw, decent drill bits, hack saw,
and some nice screws and a screwdriver. Stain and shellac as you see
fit. Brass flat-head flush mounted screws look killer with dark oak.

Hope this might get some gears turning :>)

Good providence in all your endeavours!

gary // wd4nka