[Boatanchors] rotor starting capacitor

[Jack Taylor]

I've used the back to back technique as well.  Another tip:  When installing
my HAM-II rotator I only had a source of 7 wire cable in the length
required.
According to the schematic, the motor start capacitor could be relocated to
the motor up on the tower, thus eliminating the need for a full 8 wire
cable.
The capacitor was simply taped up for weather proofing and the capacitor
wires connected to the appropriate terminals on the bottom of the HAM-II.
Thusfar the scheme has worked fine for the past 15 years.

Jack, N7OO

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Markavage" <manualman at juno.com>
To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Cc: <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>; <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] rotor starting capacitor


I use the real cheap and lazy way to replace these caps. Either rummage
the junk box for two "regular" electrolytics at double the capacitance or
pillage them from discarded computer or monitor power supplies and just
wire them back to back. PC mounted or wire leads makes no difference as
long as I can get to the leads. No one looks inside my rotor box but me.
This has always worked for me in all the CDE/CDR rotors I used over the
years including the CDR TR-4, which I bought in 59, and still turns a TV
and FM antenna.
On Tue, 6 Jul 2004 19:15:11 -0700 (PDT) Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com>
writes:
> As a result of my recent need for a control box for my
> 45 year old CDE AR-22 (hopefully have one on its way)
> I discovered a very inexpensive source of a
> replacement for the starting capacitor that is used in
> most brands of rotors.
>
> The cheapest place that I found these was W. W.
> Grainger Company.  They have branches in many areas of
> the country.  However, they no longer sell to
> individuals.  But, if you have a company, or work for
> a company and have a business card, they will open you
> a "cash" account and you are in business.  Also,
> Grainger has all sorts of other things that you just
> "can't live without"!
>
> Anyway, Grainger part number 4X064 is a 110/125 VAC,
> 50/60 Hz, 233-280 mfd capacitor that works perfectly
> in place of the same range in capacitance but 50 VAC
> capacitor that is used in most rotors.  The price is
> $4.07 in single quantities.  The capacitor is made by
> Mallory and their part number is 3534B2A0233A110.
>
> I would suspect that the capacitor is available from
> motor rebuilding shops, etc. under the Mallory part
> number.  However, the price may be a little bit
> higher.
>
> Since the capacitor is rated at 110/125 VAC they are
> slightly larger than the original capacitors.  But,
> they will fit in most control boxes.  Also, they had
> terminals for "slip on" connectors.  But, I had no
> problem soldering on wires to make the connections
> inside the rotor control boxes.
>
> Since I was quoted prices up to about $15 for a
> replacement capacitor, I definitely could solder a
> couple of short wires to the capacitor and save well
> over $10!
>
> Grainger's web site is
>
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml
>
> and the description of the capacitor can be found by
> using the "search" function at the top of the page.
> Just "click" on the arrow next to "keyword(s)", click
> on "Grainger item number", and then put in 4X064 in
> the box to the right and click "go".  It will take you
> right to the item!
>
> Anyway, if you are a firm believer in the principles
> of the conservation of your finances and labor (you
> can read "cheap and lazy") like me, and if you are in
> need of a starting capacitor to repair your rotor (the
> capacitor going bad represents at least 90% of the
> problems with rotors), then this capacitor is a viable
> alternative to paying what the rotor manufacturers
> want!
>
> Glen, K9STH

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