[ARC5] 1155A

Wed May 3 15:49:40 EDT 2017

Thanks Dave..that's the cleanest under the chassis 55 i've ever 
seen..amazing that the rubber wiring is so good ..when you mentioned the eye 
tube glowing I thought you meant the one on the 1155 not the signal 
tracer,hi!..I have a good and a bad one here..the good one is in the 
original wooden crate (I kid you not!) but it was not working when I got it 
and the DF section is missing (also on the bad one) ..a common occurrence 
with the UK MOD releases..I have them both working now ..I use an old 
Heathkit PS1 with them..a must have is the restoration bible from Peter 
Holtham VK4COZ...all you ever wanted to know about the 1155 and were afraid 
to ask,hi!..keep us informed and I will post a picture of the crate..by the 
way they work well when restored and the magic eye is super..if yours has 
the KTW tubes they are supposed to be better than US equivalents..73 de 
Pat/EI7CN
-----Original Message----- 
From: arc5-request at mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2017 3:03 PM
To: arc5 at mailman.qth.net
Subject: ARC5 Digest, Vol 160, Issue 3

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Today's Topics:

   1. R1155A:  Tuning Drive ReCondition (David Stinson)
   2. Re: RAF R-1155A.  It Begins (David Stinson)
   3. Re: RAF R-1155A.  It Begins (Lenox Carruth)
   4. R1155: Getting to Work (David Stinson)
   5. EBay "eletrocution special" for sale! (J Mcvey)
   6. Re: R1155: Getting to Work (J Mcvey)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 18:29:39 -0500
From: "David Stinson" <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>
To: "ARC-5" <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [ARC5] R1155A:  Tuning Drive ReCondition
Message-ID: <FC35808CD2744FCA98BBFD9D1D689546 at DaddyPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

Can one of you good gentlemen who has worked on
an R1155 give me any pointers on reconditioning the
Type 35 tuning drive?  I've only "rocked" this one so
far to determine it's not jammed, but I saw someone
say it was a clutch drive.  If so and cranked
willy-nilly, it could be damaged.

TNX OM DE Dave AB5S

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 18:36:11 -0500
From: "David Stinson" <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>
To: "ARC-5" <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [ARC5] RAF R-1155A.  It Begins
Message-ID: <1DD8AF748BD54B40A75AD25DDBFC9848 at DaddyPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Morrow" <kk5f at earthlink.net>

> ... After drying, an application of Break Free-CLP restored the
> original look of almost fresh paint.  I did >that 15 years ago
> and it still looks the same...Break Free-CLP is amazing stuff.

I've never heard of it.  Will look it up.  I've used
regular light-weight, fine lube oil with good results.
As long as one keeps thing covered so no more
dust accumultes.
In my wretched, tumble-down barn of a work
space, covered and stacked is about all I can do
for now.  I'd be terribly ashamed for any of you
good people to see where I actually work.
It's pathetic. I *may* live long enough to actually
build a place for all these nice radios.
Maybe, LOL.

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 19:46:42 -0500
From: "Lenox Carruth" <radios at sbcglobal.net>
To: "'David Stinson'" <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>, "'ARC-5'"
<arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [ARC5] RAF R-1155A.  It Begins
Message-ID: <012b01d2c3a6$bc0afd70$3420f850$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Break Free CLP is great stuff.  It is the only thing that the military uses
to Clean, Lubricate, and Preserve (CLP) M16s and M4s.  I use it to lubricate
almost everything that does not require grease.  It prevents rust which is
really nice.  Most all gun stores have it or you can order it online.  Bass
Pro, Cabelas, and Gander Mountain all have it.  It has Teflon in it so the
more you use it, the better it gets.

-----Original Message-----
From: ARC5 [mailto:arc5-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Stinson

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Morrow" <kk5f at earthlink.net>

> ... After drying, an application of Break Free-CLP restored the
> original look of almost fresh paint.  I did >that 15 years ago and it
> still looks the same...Break Free-CLP is amazing stuff.

I've never heard of it.  Will look it up.  I've used regular light-weight,
fine lube oil with good results.
As long as one keeps thing covered so no more dust accumultes.
In my wretched, tumble-down barn of a work space, covered and stacked is
about all I can do for now.  I'd be terribly ashamed for any of you good
people to see where I actually work.
It's pathetic. I *may* live long enough to actually build a place for all
these nice radios.
Maybe, LOL.

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 00:13:28 -0500
From: "David Stinson" <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>
To: "ARC-5" <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [ARC5] R1155: Getting to Work
Message-ID: <833327D1C0C340439A63A181F8CADB09 at DaddyPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

First:  Thank you everyone for your kind help and
information on the R1155 resurrection.
I continue to be grateful for our community. Awesome.

This radio is in good, original condition with no hacks.
The wires- often "rotten" in these radios- are in excellent
shape.  It is a better representative of its type than
one which has been heavily reworked.
Coil Box cover off:
https://goo.gl/photos/eW8i989mbkpQ1Sqc7

Goals for this repair:
To enjoy the challenge and "puzzle" of reviving the radio
in a minimally-destructive way, thus preserving its history.
To repair it in such a manner that the radio has a good
chance to be preserved by a responsible owner
after I am gone.
To acheve these goals, the radio must play.  It need not
play with 100% of its original specifications, but it must
be capable of basic performance over extended listening
periods.  After a long look at it, I think this radio a
strong candidate for the "Lowered B+" solution.
Experience has show that capacitors that leak terribly
at 250VDC may function acceptably at 45 or 90 VDC.
Grid resistors that have wandered from 1 Meg to
3 Megs may still provide acceptable function at
a lower overall voltage.

After a first cleaning (deep cleaning later), leached
DeOxit into the toggle switches and pots.  Lubricated
the mechanical shafts and bearings and DeOxit-ed the
Fuction and Band switch wafers.  Gave all the tubes
a little "wiggle" in their sockets.  Lit-up the Filament buss
and confirmed all tubes lit.  (Was the Lancaster a
6-Volt aircraft?).  Let it "cook" with no B+
for an hour and noted no current spikes or other
problems.

An important test with any receiver like this- apply
a low voltage to the B+ buss without filament voltage
and slowly increase while monitoring the current draw,
looking for shorts or large leakages.  Noted currents
at 60, 80 and 100 Volts.  Little current draw with
no filament voltage, so no shorts.  Lit the filaments,
put a Heathkit signal tracer on the PHONES connection,
said a little prayer and applied 45 Volts to the B buss.
The radio was on Band 3 (3-7.5 MC) and there was the
familiar "BFO-On" noise floor, but no signals.  Found that
there is a disconnect between the ANT connection and
the RF Amp.  Connected the antenna directly to C59
(grid input coil for Band 3)  and the radio took a breath
and played.  However, Bands 1 and 2 had no LO operation
at 45 Volts, so popped it up to 80 Volts.  The radio came
alive then.   Had to crank down the signal tracer.
https://goo.gl/photos/h8Fy7EFo56YjHMZ39

B-buss current at 80V was about 15 mills.
After playing it at 80 V. for about 20 minutes,
slowly brought the set up to 200 V for a short test,
while watching the current.
At 200V, it pulls about 30 mills.  Did not leave
it there long.  Risky taking it there in the first place,
but I just had to see that eye tube glow.
https://goo.gl/photos/xMS937JEgfpEUFmM8

There's still plenty to do.  Need to find that antenna
connection issue.  Work over the grounds.
Test all the tubes.  Refurb the Type 35 dial drive.
Determine the "right" B+ buss level for long-term
operation and preservation.  Complete alignment.
And a deep cleaning.
Then to find the loop and meter (wishful thinking).

We're on our way.
GL OM ES 73 DE Dave AB5S

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 13:54:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: J Mcvey <ac2eu at yahoo.com>
To: "ARC5 at mailman.qth.net" <ARC5 at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [ARC5] EBay "eletrocution special" for sale!
Message-ID: <359735121.1356827.1493819670692 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

See item 172657500956
This one of those old power supply kits they used to sell which rectifies B+ 
directly off the line voltage.
The plug isn't even polarized!!!!wow!
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 14:03:06 +0000 (UTC)
From: J Mcvey <ac2eu at yahoo.com>
To: David Stinson <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>, ARC-5 <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [ARC5] R1155: Getting to Work
Message-ID: <1074188989.1368491.1493820186420 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

congrats on the initial test with "proof of life".Looks a far sight better 
on the the inside...
It reminds me of how my BC-456 literally had mud caked on the exterior , but 
the innards were pristine. Weird.

    On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 1:13 AM, David Stinson <arc5 at ix.netcom.com> 
wrote:

First:? Thank you everyone for your kind help and
information on the R1155 resurrection.
I continue to be grateful for our community. Awesome.

This radio is in good, original condition with no hacks.?
The wires- often "rotten" in these radios- are in excellent
shape.? It is a better representative of its type than
one which has been heavily reworked.
Coil Box cover off:
https://goo.gl/photos/eW8i989mbkpQ1Sqc7

Goals for this repair:
To enjoy the challenge and "puzzle" of reviving the radio
in a minimally-destructive way, thus preserving its history.
To repair it in such a manner that the radio has a good
chance to be preserved by a responsible owner
after I am gone.
To acheve these goals, the radio must play.? It need not
play with 100% of its original specifications, but it must
be capable of basic performance over extended listening
periods.? After a long look at it, I think this radio a
strong candidate for the "Lowered B+" solution.
Experience has show that capacitors that leak terribly
at 250VDC may function acceptably at 45 or 90 VDC.
Grid resistors that have wandered from 1 Meg to
3 Megs may still provide acceptable function at
a lower overall voltage.

After a first cleaning (deep cleaning later), leached
DeOxit into the toggle switches and pots.? Lubricated
the mechanical shafts and bearings and DeOxit-ed the
Fuction and Band switch wafers.? Gave all the tubes
a little "wiggle" in their sockets.? Lit-up the Filament buss
and confirmed all tubes lit.? (Was the Lancaster a
6-Volt aircraft?).? Let it "cook" with no B+
for an hour and noted no current spikes or other
problems.

An important test with any receiver like this- apply
a low voltage to the B+ buss without filament voltage
and slowly increase while monitoring the current draw,
looking for shorts or large leakages.? Noted currents
at 60, 80 and 100 Volts.? Little current draw with
no filament voltage, so no shorts.? Lit the filaments,
put a Heathkit signal tracer on the PHONES connection,
said a little prayer and applied 45 Volts to the B buss.
The radio was on Band 3 (3-7.5 MC) and there was the
familiar "BFO-On" noise floor, but no signals.? Found that
there is a disconnect between the ANT connection and
the RF Amp.? Connected the antenna directly to C59
(grid input coil for Band 3)? and the radio took a breath
and played.? However, Bands 1 and 2 had no LO operation
at 45 Volts, so popped it up to 80 Volts.? The radio came
alive then.? Had to crank down the signal tracer.
https://goo.gl/photos/h8Fy7EFo56YjHMZ39

B-buss current at 80V was about 15 mills.
After playing it at 80 V. for about 20 minutes,
slowly brought the set up to 200 V for a short test,
while watching the current.?
At 200V, it pulls about 30 mills.? Did not leave
it there long.? Risky taking it there in the first place,
but I just had to see that eye tube glow.
https://goo.gl/photos/xMS937JEgfpEUFmM8

There's still plenty to do.? Need to find that antenna
connection issue.? Work over the grounds.?
Test all the tubes.? Refurb the Type 35 dial drive.
Determine the "right" B+ buss level for long-term
operation and preservation.? Complete alignment.
And a deep cleaning.?
Then to find the loop and meter (wishful thinking).

We're on our way.
GL OM ES 73 DE Dave AB5S

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