[ARC5] A hardly relaxing oscillator

[Jim Falls]

All this tweaking......oxidized, shallow slotted flat head screws are the bane of my existence on these old rigs. 

Anyone know when Phillips heads started showing up? I'd like to shake their hand, whoever they were. 


Cheers!
Jim K6FWT
CBLA #37

> On Feb 3, 2015, at 04:59, Mike Hanz <aaf-radio-1 at aafradio.org> wrote:
> 
> Success!  I've been looking a long time and finally found a term that yields no results in google - "Almanox"!  Must be the down-under equivalent of Italian regional liqueurs - made within a 20 mile radius of Brian's QTH...heh, heh...
> 
> A more widely available equivalent in North America might be Noalox or Burndy's Penetrox, which *will* yield google results on this side of the planet.  But I think the difficulty here is in the two different forms of the English language.  Tweek (or tweak) - to me - means loosening the screw counterclockwise a half turn or so and then retightening it to its former tightness.  Unless your shack is under an open cabana with a salt spray environment, it's unlikely that you will need more.  It will also tell you whether there is potentially a need to do more - if there is a white powder emanating from under the screw, some investigation is in order.
> 
> If the screw head breaks off completely, you will *definitely* need to do more...:-)
> 
>          73,
> - Mike  KC4TOS
> 
>> On 2/3/2015 5:20 AM, Brian wrote:
>> Giving all the screws a little tweak may solve a present problem, by biting through an electrolytic corrosion cell that has developed between aluminium (chassis), steel (lock washer) and brass (screw). If you or your inheritors continue to give little tweaks, the screw will eventually break.
>> 
>> The better, and more permanent solution is to remove each screw, dunk it in Almanox (or similar conductive, anti-corrosive grease) and then return it, tightening it to its required torque. If the set has had an inadvertent swim, remove the screws, clean between the pieces (ie, remove any corrosion) being held together and then apply a smear of Almanox.
>> 
>> 73 de Brian, VK2GCE.
>> 
>> On Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:12 AM , Dave said:
>> 
>> <snip> If the receiver is motorboating, two most likely suspects are either a bypass cap open or, more and more common, you have a Hi-Z ground point somewhere.  Any chassis connection or screw is suspect.  In the last 5 years I have cured many  problems by finding every screw or binder that grounds something to the chassis by giving it a little "tweek." Last one was weak receive in a Mackey Marine receiver.  It was the screws fastening the front panel.  I normally go over all such screws and bolts first thing but forgot these.  One fractional tweek and the problem was cured.
> 
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