[ARC5] [Milsurplus] [Boatanchors] [BoatAnchors] Water, Water Everywhere.

[Taigh Ramey]

I watched a guy make a plexiglas oven to reproduce WWII aircraft turret domes and B-17 noses. He made the oven out of two layers of regular Sheetrock. He used a large space heater for heat to bring the box up to temp. 
I'm not proposing an oven for the radios but I think making a box out of Sheetrock to fit your particular radios for storage and temp/humidity control might be a good and inexpensive way to go. The insulation value is good and the cost is low. You could heat and control the humidity inside and store the radios for long periods to give the time needed for all of the moisture to escape. 
WWII bombsights made be Sperry were stored in steel   containers with a light bulb socket built in the the back top corner. On the outside they had a standard two prong household socket to plug an extension cord in to. The simple incandescent light bulb, not sure what wattage, would keep the temp reasonable and moisture problems under control. 
We have American Bosch magnetos on the R985 engines on the Twin Beech aircraft we work on and fly. The mags have an old plastic distributor block that looks like it was made from a cross between Bakelite and phenolic. It's hygroscopic so it's treated with bee's wax after baking. I think I still have a vintage can of Bendix bees wax! 
As you can imagine if moisture get in the distributor block it can cause interesting things to happen when trying to start this radial engine. The quick fix is to apply heat and go but the proper fix is to reprocess the distributor block by removal, baking and applying a new barrier coat. The magneto shop uses something more modern that is better than the bees wax so if there is any interest I can find out what they use as it should work on the radio parts with similar problems.

Taigh

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 12, 2015, at 2:49 AM, don davis <dxguy at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> Sorry, I also have trouble with double negatives - this is 3rd try...hihi
> 
> Limit applied heat to minimize steam generation within components.  Internal
> steam will crack / damage components.
> 
> Better?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian [mailto:brianclarke01 at optusnet.com.au] 
> Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2015 1:14 AM
> To: don davis <dxguy at earthlink.net>; 'David Stinson' <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>;
> milsurplus at mailman.qth.net; boatanchors at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] [BoatAnchors] Water, Water Everywhere.
> 
> Hello Don,
> 
> It may just be me. But I have inordinate difficulty with sentences
> containing double negatives. For instance, I have no idea what the 1st
> sentence in your 2nd paragraph means. Could you please try a rephrase?
> 
> 73 de Brian, VK2GCE
> 
> On Saturday, December 12, 2015 6:03 PM , Don said:
> 
> I recall a similar discussion with capacitors a while back...?
> 
> Main thing is to NOT apply so much heat to prevent making steam.  Ideal
> set-up is 150 deg F heater / controller (sense point on chassis) in sealed
> box fed with dry N2 with fan agitating over several  days.  This is frim my
> Mat'ls Science guys in aerospace.  If this fixes it, I clean out cracks and
> tracks and seal with GE Glyptol.
> 
> 73 de don ad6pb 
> 
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