[ARC5] BC-AN-229 Follies, part 2

[Kenneth G. Gordon]

On 15 Nov 2014 at 17:05, Tim Des wrote:

> On *Sat Nov 15 15:23:13 EST 2014, Neil said...*
> 
>  Heat around the soldered perimeter with a propane gas torch, brushing
> away the melted solder and paint with a wire brush. Don't linger too long with
> the flame in one area. When all the solder/paint are gone, pull upwards on 
> the handle. If part of the can refuses to budge, play the torch on that area
> and keep scrubbing it until the base and internals can be lifted out.
> 
> We used to do that several times a week with delicate assemblies that
> included crystal filters.

I have used Niel's method with several Heathkit crystal-filter cans and have 
never (yet) had a problem.

I cannot imagine that this method would NOT work with those "bath-tub" 
caps.

After all, they were soldered together when they were made, and I can see 
nothing wrong with using the same method to take them apart.

FYI, the soldering irons that were used back then were usually large 
"soldering coppers" which were heated with a torch. I believe those were still 
being used by those who make or repair gutters, and also plumbers used 
them, up until quite recently.

Those usually had a large "head" made of a solid block of copper, a fairly 
long rod which connected that head to the wooden handle, which was itself 
fairly thick to prevent the heat from the copper making the handle too hot to 
hold.

The copper head usually weighed at least 2 lbs, was usually at least 4" long, 
and about 1" to 1.5" square with the "far" end filed to a point like a 4 
sided-pyramid. They were equivalent to about a 500 watt iron.

I know OTs who used those things to build radios with...

Ken W7EKB