[ARC5] Restuffing electrolytic caps - it won't work??
Kenneth G. Gordon
kgordon2006 at frontier.com
Mon Jun 2 11:58:35 EDT 2014
Thank you, Mike. :-)
I guess I should have said, "I sure as heck wouldn't do that....until I knew
more..." :-)
Now we "know more".
Ken W7EKB
On 2 Jun 2014 at 8:47, Mike Hanz wrote:
> On 6/1/2014 4:52 PM, Kenneth G. Gordon wrote:
> >> My problem with this: When drilling out the old cap guts,
> >> I can smell and even taste chemicals from inside them
> >> which become aerosolized during the drilling.
> >> I have no idea what I'm breathing-in during this process,
> >> but I don't like it. Anyone know if my head is going
> >> to turn green and fall off??
> > Probably. I sure as heck wouldn't do that.
>
> I realize that the conventional wisdom these days suggests we all wear
> Hazmat suits whenever we enter the radio shack, but AB5S's experience
> prompted me to investigate the composition of electrolytic capacitors
> back in the early 1940s, and to dissect examples of both the 5uF and
> 15uF caps in question. It's easy to peel back the onion layers with a
> lathe and boring bar. Here's the construction that I found in the two
> examples:
>
> After removing the top using the pipe cutter tool, you are faced with
> the picture at http://home.netcom.com/~arc5/Restuff/IMG_3116.JPG The
> reddish disk with the eyelet connection on top is actually made from red
> pigmented rubber - basically a red rubber washer 1/8" thick. The next
> layer underneath that is a similar thickness disk of phenolic. This is
> where the smell come from - anyone who has drilled or machined phenolic
> is familiar with that lovely aroma. It's also where the yellow
> "cornmeal" stuff comes from as you drill down through it. Beneath that
> is a paper insulated rolled capacitor. Henney's Radio Engineering
> Handbook (1941) advises that this design is the latest in technology for
> electrolytics, and is composed of tightly controlled thickness aluminum
> foil that has been etched to increase the surface area, and the
> electrolytic portion of the paper dielectric is...are your Hazmat suits
> sealed?...wait for it...apparently just ionized water! Placing a drop
> of the fluid in the can on a freshly sanded steel surface produced
> fairly quick rusting. Okay, Hazmat suits off...:-)
>
> At the bottom is a slim (.030" thick) circle of phenolic to insulate the
> bottom side of the rolled capacitor from the bottom of the can. Though
> not relevant here, Henney also advises that normal oil filled paper
> capacitors use either castor oil, cottonseed oil, or "transformer oil",
> whatever that was in 1941.
>
> As Dave mentioned, the aluminum container for this concoction, including
> the top rubber washer, is pressed into the brass shell of the
> capacitor. The connection of the outer foil to the aluminum can is
> apparently just direct contact with the can for 360 degrees. The inner
> foil connection is through the eyelet.
>
> I did not remove the pressed-in aluminum cup from either capacitor since
> everything came out so cleanly, but there is no other apparent ground
> connection - which begs the question of why there is a ground solder
> blob between the two screw posts on the bottom of the capacitor. I
> hated to destroy one of these two examples, since they are prime
> material for restuffing. I suspect there is a simple pressure contact
> in the bottom of the cup that enhances the ground connection of the
> inner can, but it will have to wait until I find a more suitable (badly
> corroded) example to investigate. In the meantime, I would suggest
> simply solder sucking the blob off the bottom and drilling a .030" hole
> through the bottom of the aluminum can for the ground lead of the
> restuffed caps, then resoldering that ground lead like the original.
>
> I'll put some photos of this dissection up at
> http://aafradio.org/garajmahal/Removing_command_receiver_capacitor_tops.html
> later on today when I get some time.
>
> 73,
> Mike KC4TOS
>
>
>
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Kenneth G. Gordon W7EKB
"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway."--- John Wayne
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