[ARC5] Large-Pin GF/RU etc. Connectors

[Jay Coward]

Potential source for springy steel:
 I just replaced the wiper blades on my truck.(supposed to rain in CA Monday,go figure). The old blades had two spring steel strips along the length of the blade which fall right out upon removale of the wiper blade. These seem to be 1/2 the width of the channel that accepts the retainer hardware for the big pin plugs Dave is refering to. Maybe one strip will work or two side by side. Have not tried it yet.
 Guesstimate 1/8" x 1/32". Nice and "springy" but with some stiffness.
 My $.02, YMMV,etc.
 Jay KE6PPF


-----Original Message-----
From: David Stinson <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>
To: milsurplus <milsurplus at mailman.qth.net>; ARC-5 Yahoo <ARC-5radio at yahoogroups.com>; ARC-5 List <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sat, May 25, 2013 10:38 am
Subject: [ARC5] Large-Pin GF/RU etc. Connectors


Re: Using the large-pin Navy/Army connectors
(GF/RU,. GP, SCR-183, LM etc.)
Three people have asked me about this so I'm posting
to the reflectors for general info.

The bakelite inserts are often "frozen" in place due to uptaking
moisture over the decades.  Put them in a ceramic bowl and
place them in a 250 degree oven for 2-3 hours.
Let them cool and the inserts will likely be free.
If not, treat again.  I've only had one out of many remain stuck.

To remove the inserts from those that had shielded cables
and were "cut off," remove the insert locking screw.
Put the connector in a bench vise, face down.
Grip the insert with needle-nose pliers in two of the pins.
Heat the "cut-off" end with a propane torch (stinky ;-).
Gently pull and the insert and wires will come out.
Use a screwdriver or something to remove the shield
and debris while heating and you'll have a useable connector.
Open wire vs. sheilded cable is authentic, especially later in
the war when metals and rubber had to be carefully rationed.

To put the insert back- I have a thin metal strip that was originally
used in a relay contact burnishing tool.  It is exactly the width
of the groove in the bakelite insert into which the locking spring
(with the two buttons) fits.  If you can find some "springy"
steel or similar, you can make one.  Soft metal will not work.
This takes some practice and will be a bit frustrating at first, but it 
works.
Hold the connector with the button holes down and place the
leaf spring, open end to the front.   Place the metal strip in
the bakelite groove, then place the strip's end above the leaf spring,
compressing it.  As you align and assemble the connector,
the metal strip will compress the leaf spring and allow
the insert to slide right in.  Pull out the strip and align the screw hole.

Steve is "the man" for these connectors.
I'm grateful to him for spending his time and assets
making these available to us.
Here are a couple of links.  Click "other items"
to see the many connectors he has available now.

135 connectors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221149076337

And I believe these are the Army version of 134:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140879756360

73 DE Dave AB5S

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