[ARC5] Penetrating Oils

[Mike Everette]

As for P-B Blaster, I can offer this positive experience which convinced me of its merits.

When I acquired my first Hallicrafters SX-28, I discovered that it had apparently been stored in an environment rich in COAL SOOT.  

The chassis and even the control shafts (where no covered by a knob) were full of tiny pits.

Nothing I tried, not even Liquid Wrench, would get rid of the corrosion and black spots, until I tried using P-B Blaster in a cotton wad or rag to scrub the chassis and shafts.  The stuff did a magnificent job.  By the time I finished with the chassis -- and it didn't take that long once I saw the progress developing; I got real enthusiastic -- you could see yourself in it.  No exaggeration.

I also discovered that P-B Blaster, wiped over aluminum IF cans and tube shields (not found in the SX-28, but something else) did a great job of cleaning them.  Even some metal parts in a BC-342 which were downright fuzzy with corrosion came reasonably clean by using it; but I did have to do further work with fine-grit sandpaper and Nevr-Dull cotton wadding metal polish to finish it up.

DON'T let P-B Blaster get into a transformer or choke winding; it might eat the insulation or even attack varnish on wires.  I would never use it around RF coils either.

Oh yes, something else that does an excellent job on light oxidation is an artist's eraser -- the hard, white kind.  Get several.  They are cheap.  I once polished a very oxidized BC-459A to a display-quality high sheen using these things.

73

Mike
W4DSE


--- On Tue, 1/29/13, Geoff <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com> wrote:

> From: Geoff <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com>
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Penetrating Oils
> To: "Mike Everette" <radiocompass at yahoo.com>, "Robert Eleazer" <releazer at earthlink.net>, arc5 at mailman.qth.net
> Date: Tuesday, January 29, 2013, 12:38 PM
> ** The same could be said for most
> solvents and many cleaners.
> The old "Test in an inconspicuous place" warning was never
> more important.
> 
> Even water can remove dial scale markings in some consumer
> and 
> communications radios.
> 
> 
> 
> Be very careful of using acetone in a radio.  It will
> attack plastic.  No 
> telling what it will do to various forms of insulation, or
> to some finishes.
> 
> 73
> 
> Mike
> W4DSE
> 
> --- On Mon, 1/28/13, Geoff <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com>
> wrote:
> 
> > From: Geoff <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com>
> > Subject: Re: [ARC5] Penetrating Oils
> > To: "Robert  Eleazer" <releazer at earthlink.net>,
> arc5 at mailman.qth.net
> > Date: Monday, January 28, 2013, 10:28 PM
> > That discussion has been making the
> > rounds and was far from a controlled experiment but
> yes, the
> > ATF/Acetone is worth trying. Ive a muffler to replace
> on my
> > old 78 F-250 plow truck when the weather warms up a
> bit.
> >
> > Diesel fuel has its place also especially with stuck
> rings
> > in an engine, Ive returned long stuck V-8 flatheads to
> good
> > running with no apparent loss of compression or oil
> > burning.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Eleazer" 
> > <releazer at earthlink.net>
> > To: <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 6:28 PM
> > Subject: [ARC5] Penetrating Oils
> >
> >
> > > A friend sent me a discussion of experiments with
> > various types of penetrating oils. It seems that after
> > trying various well known and not so well known
> off-the
> > shelf products they found that the best penetrating oil
> for
> > freeing frozen screws and things was a 50/50 mix of
> acetone
> > and any kind of automatic transmission fluid.
> > >
> > > I have a new unused bottle of an unknown type of
> auto
> > transmission fluid (label is worn off) and I may just
> mix up
> > a batch of the stuff and see how it does.
> > >
> > > And as for my rusty NC-270 tuning cap, I have
> located a
> > replacement.
> > >
> > > Wayne
> > >
> >
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> Date: 01/28/13
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