[ARC5] Clearing solder from sockets and pins

[k0ng at windstream.net]

>>>>>> Hello Les: I agree completely with your de-soldering process. Only "over 
here" (up here??) I believe we spell it "pliars". (but then I am a hill billy, HI)

73,  DE Charlie, K0NG EN10 Nebraska   ..

---- Leslie Smith <vk2bcu at operamail.com> wrote: 
> 
> 
> Hello Ian:
> 
> I have one or two command sets (ARC-5 or ARA) where the rear panel socket has been filled with solder.  You asked about removing the solder to restore the socket.  
> 
> I use a 60 watt good quality iron, solder wick (de-soldering braid) and a needle nose plier.  (I may use pliers - I don't know the correct form for this noun.  Perhaps each arm of the device I use is one plier, and together I have a pair of pliers.  I digress ...)  Also a tiny quantity of solder (resin core - of course).
> 
> 
> I set the temperature of the iron to 350 to 360 degrees C. (Best science & metric units in use bere!) 
> 
> I use braid and solder to wet the solder in the socket.  I get enought heat into the solder inside the socket to melt it.  Althought a higher temperature means more heat, it reduces the overall time for the process : so more heat, but a shorter time.
> 
> Next I use the pliers to feed the braid into the socket.  This draws a good part of the now-melted solder into the braid.  Removing the braid leaves a partly clear socket hole.
> 
> I repeat this a number of times (taking care to keep the socket hot, but not over-heated).  Then, at the end, I feed in enough fresh braid to fill the socket.  I twist it with the pliers before removing it, quite quickly.  This last action tends to wipe the inside of the socket clean.
> 
> Sometime soon I plan to fit a 2.50mm drill to a tapping handle to clear the last bit of solder.  The socket is 1/10 inch, or 2.54 mm, so I should have 4 thou (or mils) clearance.  I haven't done this yet.  I wouldn't use an electric drill to spin the drill bit - I think that process may "rip" the socket.
> 
> I read once about a technique to clear sockets by melting the solder and using compressed air to blow away the molten solder.  This is a certain way to blind one-self - even using glasses or a mask.  If the blinding doesn't happen at first, it will soon enough.  Old hands will not need such advice.  I trust young hands NEVER do this.  Blindness aside, this technique spreads molten solder everywhere, including under the chassis and amongst the wiring of the not-so-soon to be repaired set.  NO! NOT! NEVER! DON'T. 
> 
> I use de-soldering braid to remove unwanted solder from the 3 upright genemotor pins.  With the help of a friend, apply heat to the pin, wire and offending solder.  Remove the wire to leave a pin with a blob of solder on it.  Then take a strip of braid and get it hot enough to melt solder.  While hot pull the strip to and fro around the pin.  The braid will absorb the solder, leaving a relatively clean pin.  If possible, avoid filing the pin, as this removes the protective plating material on the pin.
>   
> Describing this is rather like explaining how to tie a shoelace.
> It's easier to do than explain!
> 
> Hope this helps.
> Let me know how you get on!
> 
> Les
> ex VK2BCU
> VK2BCU "at" OperaMail dot com
> 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ian Wilson <ianmwilson73 at gmail.com>
> > To: "Discussion of AN/ARC-5 military radio equipment." <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
> > Subject: Re: [ARC5] (1) Hacking Sets (2) Saving Sets
> > Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 22:48:58 -0700
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Les,
> > 
> > Thank you for a thoughtful post.
> > 
> > Could you share your technique for removing solder from the rear
> > connector (if it was in the original post, I apologize; didn't see it).
> > 
> > 73, ian K3IMW
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