[Antennas] Splicing Coax

[W3HKK@aol.com]

Looks like the  purists are having a field day. And it sure looks 
professional to  use coax connectors. But it can get expensive, not to 
mention time consuming, making  those connections.  

So if  in a pinch you have  to join coax at HF, just solder it and wrap it to 
keep the water out.  You wont see a measurable difference.  I  lay the coax 
side by side for strength. 

My 2M   5/8 Larsen magmount had its coax snipped,  so I merely soldered it 
and taped it, and used it  in the mobile for 5 years with no discernable 
performance difference.  SWR was about 1.2:1  where I operate most, just 
about like before.   The splice   is outside on the roof and I didnt want 
anything heavy out there  wearing out  the auto finish since even  coax 
causes scuff marks. 

However,  when you get above 2M ,  especially on 440MHZ, any coax deficiency 
is serious, especially using new or old HF coax that still works fine on HF 
but will give you big time attenuation on 440.  There you do need the best 
coax like Belden 9913F or  LMR400 or equivalent.  But even those come with 
PL239s at each end.  Any splicing I  do for that band is  done with N 
connectors.  But be careful, the N connector barrels are so thin that if you 
try to unsolder one...or  apply too much heat, the silver barrel itself will  
melt.  At $6 a pop at AES ,  thats painful.  So they are pretty much a one 
use item.

MFJs antenna analyzer  lets you perform a simple test on runs of coax to 
measure its attenuation at any frequency.  Do that on all your existing coax 
and it will be an eye  opener regarding HF vs VHF/UHF.  Also use an ohmmeter 
on all  female-female or right angle PL259 connectors.  There should be  no 
resistance in something that small yet Ive measured some of my purchases at  
between 1 and 3  ohms.  It boggles the mind.

Bob    


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