[AMRadio] Seeking advice for 1st time restoration -- Viking II

Wed Jul 20 09:10:38 EDT 2011

Mark,

There is a ham advertising a Viking 2 being parted out on QTH.com, might 
have the top panel.

If you are interested in reading a critical analysis of the Viking 2 
circuitry along with some suggested mods, pick up ER #110 and 111.

I would suggest that replacing the filter caps in the low voltage (300V) 
and bias supplies is a practical minimum restoration prior to power up.

I am in the middle of a Viking 2 project, however what I'm doing  goes 
way beyond "restoration", it's more like "re-design and re-kit".   When 
this gets finished it will be more of a homebrew AM TX built on a Viking 
2 platform than a "restored " Viking 2.

73 Jack KZ5A

On 7/17/2011 4:18 PM, J. Mark Bolton wrote:
> After years of surfing the web and admiring pictures of beautifully restored
> boatanchor classics I now find myself with a Johnson Viking II waiting to be
> returned to the AM airwaves.
>
> The transmitter appears to be physically complete and unmodified. There are
> no holes in the chassis or panel and all of the knobs are in place. The only
> part missing is the perforated metal top. (Does anyone have one from a
> "parts" radio they would like to sell?)
>
> I have been only a lurker of this list for years, I've tried to soak up all
> of the knowledge this group has collectively shared. More recently, in
> regards to this Viking II transmitter, I have read most everything a Google
> search reveals.
>
> At this point I would very much appreciate any advice, guidance, warnings or
> assistance that anyone can offer for my restoration efforts. I am not an
> electrical engineer or a technician. I have never repaired a radio from the
> component level. I can solder, clean a chassis, install connectors, build
> antennas and other basic stuff and I read insatiably.
>
> But, I have always been only an "appliance operator". I have a working
> knowledge of electronics. I use a Fluke 87 multi-meter, a Bird wattmeter and
> a frequency counter and I've have played only casually with an oscilloscope
> to monitor modulation. I've never worked at the component lever with a
> radio.
>
> During my teenage years I was a radio disk jockey for a small-market station
> and worked under the tutelage of a First-Class broadcast engineer. At age 16
> I was down at the transmitter shack assisting with a Proof of Performance
> and learned much about the insides of a Gates BC-1J (1000 watts with
> 833A's). Just as a sidebar to this story, when the modulation transformer on
> the Gates transmitter failed, I ran home and robbed the transformer from my
> BC-610. That got WBLO back on the air, at least for a few days, before my
> BC-610 transformer also failed.
>
> At the end of my teenage years I let a lot of great old radios slip thru my
> hands, not knowing that one day I'd give just about anything to have them
> all back. I had an R-390A receiver, A National NC 300, a BC-348 receiver, A
> BC-610 transmitter, now minus a modulation transformer,  a Globe King 500, a
> Johnson Valiant transmitter and a host of other radios.
>
> Dang it, I sure wish I had any one of those back.
>
> I was first licensed at 15 as a Novice and then joined Army MARS (That's why
> I had all the old AM gear). Now at age 54 I have a rekindled interest in the
> hobby. I listen to the AM guys on 3.885 and occasionally when the band is
> quiet, I have a few short QSO with 25 watts coming from a Yaseu FT-450. But
> I dream of a good solid plate modulated AM signal.
>
> I know this Viking II is still not going to produce a powerhouse signal on
> 80 meters but it only cost me $50 at the Orlando, FL hamfest and that's what
> I have for the moment. It doesn't look too challenging to work on and I
> think it will be a good "experience rig" to learn some restoration
> techniques.
>
> So, here's where I am at present.
>
> 1.	I've resisted the urge to plug the rig in - even though I have a
> Variac - I've read enough to believe trying to heat it up would likely
> result is an exploded capacitor then I'd have a real mess to clean up.
> 2.	I have an original manual
> 3.	I've made a shopping list of all of the paper/electrolytic
> capacitors
> 4.	I've made no efforts yet to clean the chassis or to lubricate the
> shafts of the various controls. Some are a little stiff.  One concern is the
> 160 meter In/Out control that uses dial cord to operate a ceramic wafer
> switch. I'm afraid it would not take much to break that cord and don't want
> to add restringing the dial cord to my list of "must do" items.
>
> I would appreciate any advice on changing out capacitors. I haven't ordered
> yet but I have found most of then at www.justradios.com
>
> Do I need to also change the little square mica capacitors?  Hopefully just
> the paper electrolytics. Other than blowing out the dust with an air
> compressor I had intended to do the least amount of disassembly possible
> until I could recap the transmitter and then power it up.
>
> But assuming that is a success, what is the best advice of chassis cleaning.
> I don't want to do more harm than good. I was thinking of DeoXIT for the
> controls and tube sockets.
>
> So that's where I stand for now. Here are a few pictures, actually a LOT of
> pictures.
>
> http://photos.coastalec.com/Other/Viking-II-Restoration/18091728_d2pktp
>
>
> I'd sure appreciate all advice and assistance.
>
> ka4cid at arrl.net
> Mark Bolton
> Richmond Hill, GA
>
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