[AMRadio] Seeking advice for 1st time restoration -- Viking II

[Bill Harris]

Thanks for the input Jim:I'll have to run down that ER article.I have 6 "Norwegian Wireless" set's; both I and II's, That I need to start rebuilding.  Your remarks are most inspiring.Has anyone done a silk screen for the front panel?There must be a Johnson Viking reflector somewhere...?Later
BillHarris-w7kxb
Seattle, WA

> From: knjhanlon at msn.com
> To: amradio at mailman.qth.net; costalemc at costalnow.net
> Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 21:15:07 -0600
> Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Seeking advice for 1st time restoration -- Viking II
> 
> 
> Marc,
>  
> Congrats on getting a Viking II.  I'm sure you are going to enjoy it.  I have a Viking I and II on the air, and they are really nice rigs.  I'll offer a few comments on your questions, and I'll aslo send you, off the list, a copy of an article from Electric Radio magazine, August through November 2001, about "How to repair a transmitter."
>  
> 
> > So, here's where I am at present.
> > 
> > 1. I've resisted the urge to plug the rig in - even though I have a
> > Variac - I've read enough to believe trying to heat it up would likely
> > result is an exploded capacitor then I'd have a real mess to clean up.
>  
> Good idea to be cautious about applying power.  There are a few things I'd suggest you do first, as outlined in the article.
> 
> > 2. I have an original manual
>  
> Great.  That will come in handy.
> 
> > 3. I've made a shopping list of all of the paper/electrolytic
> > capacitors
>  
> Can't hurt, but my own experience is that you very seldom have to replace parts on a wholesale basis.  As I recall, I didn't have to replace any parts on either of my Vikings, and that is not unusual.  I've restored more than 30 transmitters, including an NTX-30 vintage 1938, and I have yet to find one that needs more than just a few parts replaced.  
> 
> > 4. I've made no efforts yet to clean the chassis or to lubricate the
> > shafts of the various controls. Some are a little stiff. One concern is the
> > 160 meter In/Out control that uses dial cord to operate a ceramic wafer
> > switch. I'm afraid it would not take much to break that cord and don't want
> > to add restringing the dial cord to my list of "must do" items.
>  
> I'd advise some lube on the switch shaft and on the detent mechanism.  Also some Deoxit contact cleaner would be good for the switch contacts themselves.  
> > 
> > I would appreciate any advice on changing out capacitors. I haven't ordered
> > yet but I have found most of then at www.justradios.com
>  
> My advice is to not change anything out unless it has failed.  You might want to replace the electrolytics if you are being very conservative.  
> > 
> > Do I need to also change the little square mica capacitors? 
>  
> NO!
>  
> Hopefully just
> > the paper electrolytics. Other than blowing out the dust with an air
> > compressor I had intended to do the least amount of disassembly possible
> > until I could recap the transmitter and then power it up. 
>  
> Recapping wholesale would be a waste of time, money, and good vintage parts.  
> > 
> > But assuming that is a success, what is the best advice of chassis cleaning.
> > I don't want to do more harm than good. I was thinking of DeoXIT for the
> > controls and tube sockets.
>  
> I use a vacuum cleaner followed by some 409 All Purpose Cleaner for any really dirty spots.  A toothbrush can help get into hard to reach places.  Don't go nuts about making it shiny.  DeOxit is good for switch contacts and for pots if they appear to be scratchy.  Generally tube sockets don't need help.  
> > 
> > So that's where I stand for now. Here are a few pictures, actually a LOT of
> > pictures. 
> > 
> > http://photos.coastalec.com/Other/Viking-II-Restoration/18091728_d2pktp
> > 
> > 
> > I'd sure appreciate all advice and assistance.
> > 
> > ka4cid at arrl.net
> > Mark Bolton
> > Richmond Hill, GA
> 
> The general advice in that article may give you a few more hints.  Keep us informed on the list about anything you find, and we can make a sked once you get the Viking on the air.  Oh, one more thing.  You would probably find a VFO to be quite useful.  I am using a Heathkit VF-1 and a Johnson Viking VFO with my rigs.  Both work fine.
>  
> 73 and good luck,
>  
> Jim, W8KGI