[AMRadio] Viking II

russ dworakowski wb3fau at hotmail.com
Wed May 1 11:04:28 EDT 2002


Al,  you  need  not  replace  the  HV  supply  cap,  unless you  know  it is 
  bad.  The  low B+  caps  I  think  are  40 ufd   and  the  bias
supply  caps.  Also  any  electrolytics  in  the  audio chain.  Just  these  
few  items  will bring  the  Viking II  back to  life.  The  hi
B+  cap  is  oil  filled  and  usually  is  good.  Unless  you  want  hi-fi  
audio,  that  should doit.  Look up  Antique  Electronic
Supply  in AZ.   Go  to www.tubesandmore.com      Enjoy  the  project-
Russ

>From: ATanner283 at aol.com
>Reply-To: amradio at mailman.qth.net
>To: amradio at mailman.qth.net
>CC: johnson at mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [AMRadio] Viking II
>Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 18:10:15 EDT
>
>Thanks for replies about my problem with the modified II. I also have 
>another
>Viking II that I am going  to start on instead, saving the modified chopped
>one for later. The current rig works, but has a few "old age" problems. The
>plate idle current drifts up and down and the rig "chirps" on CW. I am 
>going
>to start to replace the caps first. It has been awhile since I have done 
>this
>and am a little out of touch.(XYL says REALLY out there with these old
>radios) Anyway, when I last worked on heavy iron, common nomenclature was
>"kilocycle" and "micro-farad". Well, you get the pic. What are the current
>accepted capacior types to replace the old paper/wax NON electrolytics??
>Orange drops??? What about the bigger electros?? What are good sources for
>this stuff?? I looked on Mouser pages but no pics, and so many different
>kinds of caps available now I am lost. Help please......Al/W8FAX
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>AMRadio at mailman.qth.net
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