[AMRadio] Viking II
russ dworakowski
wb3fau at hotmail.com
Wed May 1 11:04:28 EDT 2002
Al, you need not replace the HV supply cap, unless you know it is
bad. The low B+ caps I think are 40 ufd and the bias
supply caps. Also any electrolytics in the audio chain. Just these
few items will bring the Viking II back to life. The hi
B+ cap is oil filled and usually is good. Unless you want hi-fi
audio, that should doit. Look up Antique Electronic
Supply in AZ. Go to www.tubesandmore.com Enjoy the project-
Russ
>From: ATanner283 at aol.com
>Reply-To: amradio at mailman.qth.net
>To: amradio at mailman.qth.net
>CC: johnson at mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [AMRadio] Viking II
>Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 18:10:15 EDT
>
>Thanks for replies about my problem with the modified II. I also have
>another
>Viking II that I am going to start on instead, saving the modified chopped
>one for later. The current rig works, but has a few "old age" problems. The
>plate idle current drifts up and down and the rig "chirps" on CW. I am
>going
>to start to replace the caps first. It has been awhile since I have done
>this
>and am a little out of touch.(XYL says REALLY out there with these old
>radios) Anyway, when I last worked on heavy iron, common nomenclature was
>"kilocycle" and "micro-farad". Well, you get the pic. What are the current
>accepted capacior types to replace the old paper/wax NON electrolytics??
>Orange drops??? What about the bigger electros?? What are good sources for
>this stuff?? I looked on Mouser pages but no pics, and so many different
>kinds of caps available now I am lost. Help please......Al/W8FAX
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