[1000mp] Power ok - unknown mods

ON4VP [email protected]
Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:24:20 +0200


From what I can read and compare to my pictures, this is not the mod ...
Tnx, Philippe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald Walters" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [1000mp] Power ok - unknown mods


> Philippe,
>
> The earlier models of the FT1000MP had a problem with the power
adjustment,
> there was a mod that several of us to allow for the power adjustment in
all
> modes without the need to adjust the audio.  If you search the archives
you
> probably can find discussions about the  mod and compare it to the changes
> you saw in the rig.  I have pasted a copy of the mod, see if this is what
it
> is?  Good luck and have fun with a great rig.
> PS - I think that the pasted text below about the mod was not needed on
rigs
> after 1997 vintage, not really sure if that is accurate.  Check out the
> archives
>
> 73's Ron W4LDE
>
> Copy!!!!
>
> [Yaesu] FT-1000MP RF Power Mod -- Do-it-yourself instructions
>
> Robert A. Wilson ([email protected])
> Mon, 14 Apr 97 00:16:32 PDT
>
>
>
> .Messages sorted by: [ date ][ thread ][ subject ][ author ] .Next
message:
> Robert A. Wilson: "[Yaesu] New Yaesu FT-920 First Looks" .Previous
message:
> Adamson, Alan: "[Yaesu] FS: FT1000D + DSP"
>
>
>
>
> The Rig:        Yaesu FT-1000MP (new units may not have this problem)
>
> The Problem:    When the RF speech processor is activated, adjustment of
the
>                 the "RF PWR" control becomes very critical -- output power
> can
>                 jump from 40 watts to 100 watts when the control is
rotated
>                 only a few degrees.
>
> The Solution:   Add a jumper wire and cut a trace (detailed instructions
> below)
>
> Disclaimer:     I am not a Yaesu service technician.  The modification
>                 described below was shown to me at the 1997 Fresno DX
>                 Convention by "Winston" of Yaesu service, but NO ONE AT
>                 YAESU HAS REVIEWED THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
>
>                 If you mess up your radio attempting to install this
>                 modification yourself, do not blame me or anyone at Yaesu.
>                 All responsibility lies solely with you.
>
>                 If in doubt, send your rig to Yaesu.
>
> The good news:  I installed this mod on two FT-1000MPs, and it worked
fine.
>                 I have not noticed any unwanted side-effects.
>
> What you need:  1. Good eyesight
>                 2. Steady hands
>                 3. A small soldering iron, and experience using it
>                 4. About 6 inches (15 cm) of No. 24 or 26 AWG insulated
wire
>                 5. Metal tweezers or forceps
>                 6. A small knife with a sharp tip for cutting one trace
>
> If you do not have ALL of the above, you should not proceed any further.
>
> The wire size is critical.  Anything larger will not fit into the tiny
holes
> in the circuit board.  Radio Shack stocks only ONE kind of wire this
small:
> Cat. No. 278-857, 2-conductor "Rainbow Wire."  Only one conductor is used;
I
> unzipped the tiny "zip cord" to get the length I needed.  If you have No.
26
> insulated wire around, use it instead.
>
> Detailed Instructions Follow (print with fixed-pitch font, such as
Courier)
>
> 1. Remove top cover
>
> 2. Remove bottom cover
>
> 3. Orient the radio so that unit is upside down (bottom side up), and
>    the rear of the radio is nearest to you.  The circuit board that will
>    be modified is the "AF Unit," which is in the lower left corner.
>    It has a shiny shielded metal box in the middle.
>
>               FT-1000MP
>              Bottom View
>
>                 Front
>    +===============================+
>    |                               |
>    |                               |
>    |                               |
>    |                               |
>    |                               |
>    |                               |
>    | _________                     |
>    ||   AF    |                    |
>    ||  Unit   |                    |
>    ||_________|                    |
>    +===============================+
>                  Rear
>
>
> 4. Locate diode D3023 in the lower left corner of the AF Unit, about
>    1 inch (2.5 cm) from the left and 1 inch from the rear.  Just below it
>    (nearer to the rear) is a small trace that runs right to left,
> terminating
>    in a small solder "island."  The trace is completely surrounded by a
wide
>    metal trace.  The island has a small "through-hole" in the center that
is
>    filled with solder, but has no visible components.  The island is
> completely
>    "in the clear."  Do not confuse this with the island immediately
> UNDERNEATH
>    D3023.
>
>
>           AF Unit (lower left corner)
>
>    |
>    |
>    |                D3023
>    |                 -==-
>    |        wide metal
>    |          area        |
>    |                      |
>    |       /--------------/
>    |      ( ()============ <--- Narrow trace terminating in solder island
>    |       \--------------\     Jumper will be soldered to this island and
>    |                      |     trace will be cut
>    |        wide metal    |
>    |          area
>    |
>    |_____________________________
>
>
> 5. Locate trim-pot (variable resistor) VR3011, labeled "AM", near the top
>    left center of the AF Unit.  It is white, square, and clearly labeled,
>    and "in the clear"
>
>
>           AF Unit (top left center)
>     ______________________________________
>    |
>    |                        VR3011
>    |                        +----+
>    |                        |    |
>    |                        +----+ <--- jumper will be soldered to this
leg
>    |                          AM
>    |
>    |
>    |
>    |
>
> 6. Cut a length of No. 24 or No. 26 insulated wire long enough to reach
from
>    the solder island near D3023 to the lower right corner of VR3011.
Strip
>    3/16 inch (5 mm) of insulation from each end.
>
> 7. Important:  Tin both ends with solder.  You just want a thin coat -- no
>    "blobs"
>
> 8. This is the hardest step.  If you can get through this, the rest is
easy.
>
>    Point the tip of the wire into the center of the solder island using
>    tweezers or forceps.   Heat the WIRE with a soldering iron until it
melts
>    the solder in the through-hole, then push the hot wire into the hole
and
> let
>    it cool.
>
>    When soldering, be careful not to touch other wires with the soldering
> iron.
>    Do not push too much bare wire into the hole, just enough to make a
good
>    connection to the through-hole.
>
>    It may be helpful to pull back a little more insulation before
soldering,
>    then push the insulation back down after soldering.
>
>    Make sure there are no solder blobs shorting to the surrounding traces.
>
> 9. Tin the lower right leg of VR3011 with a little solder, then solder the
>    other end of the jumper wire to this leg.  Do not use too much heat.
>
> 10. Using the tip of a sharp knife, gently cut the small trace leading to
> the
>     solder island as shown below.  You do not have to cut too deep, but
>     be sure the cut is wide enough and that there are no shorts to
> surrounding
>     traces:
>
>           AF Unit (lower left corner)
>
>    |
>    |
>    |                D3023
>    |                 -==-
>    |        wide metal
>    |          area        |
>    |                      |
>    |       /--------------/
>    |      ( ()=====\ \==== <--- Cut trace as shown
>    |       \--------------\
>    |                      |
>    |        wide metal    |
>    |          area
>    |
>    |_____________________________
>
> 11. Re-install bottom cover and top cover
>
> 12. Turn on the radio and verify that the RF PWR knob now controls output
>     power smoothly, both with and without the speech processor active.
>
> Good luck everyone.
>
> 73,
> Bob Wilson, N6TV
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ON4VP" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 00:32
> Subject: [1000mp] Power ok - unknown mods
>
>
> > Sorry, the link is www.2die4.be/ft1000/modpics.htm
> > 73
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info, I have the power adjusted to 100 watt now
(14.200).
> > > I checked all band (differs from 94 to 103).
> > >
> > > When working on this, I discovered three components added on a
> printboard.
> > > The printboard sits on the side of the housing (has the cw connector
> from
> > > the back)
> > >
> > > 1 capasitor is soldered
> > > 1 resistor is soldered
> > > 1 green small lead is soldered
> > >
> > > I like to know either this is standard, a modification known among
> > ft1000mp
> > > owners or even a mod done only b the previous owner. I made some
> picture,
> > > can I attach them in a mail to this reflector or not ?
> > > I have put them on my website at www.2die.be/ft1000/modpics.htm
> > >
> > > Hope someone can tell ?
> > >
> > > 73, Philippe
> > > ON4VP
> > >
> >
> >
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