[1000mp] Power ok - unknown mods
ON4VP
[email protected]
Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:24:20 +0200
From what I can read and compare to my pictures, this is not the mod ...
Tnx, Philippe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald Walters" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [1000mp] Power ok - unknown mods
> Philippe,
>
> The earlier models of the FT1000MP had a problem with the power
adjustment,
> there was a mod that several of us to allow for the power adjustment in
all
> modes without the need to adjust the audio. If you search the archives
you
> probably can find discussions about the mod and compare it to the changes
> you saw in the rig. I have pasted a copy of the mod, see if this is what
it
> is? Good luck and have fun with a great rig.
> PS - I think that the pasted text below about the mod was not needed on
rigs
> after 1997 vintage, not really sure if that is accurate. Check out the
> archives
>
> 73's Ron W4LDE
>
> Copy!!!!
>
> [Yaesu] FT-1000MP RF Power Mod -- Do-it-yourself instructions
>
> Robert A. Wilson ([email protected])
> Mon, 14 Apr 97 00:16:32 PDT
>
>
>
> .Messages sorted by: [ date ][ thread ][ subject ][ author ] .Next
message:
> Robert A. Wilson: "[Yaesu] New Yaesu FT-920 First Looks" .Previous
message:
> Adamson, Alan: "[Yaesu] FS: FT1000D + DSP"
>
>
>
>
> The Rig: Yaesu FT-1000MP (new units may not have this problem)
>
> The Problem: When the RF speech processor is activated, adjustment of
the
> the "RF PWR" control becomes very critical -- output power
> can
> jump from 40 watts to 100 watts when the control is
rotated
> only a few degrees.
>
> The Solution: Add a jumper wire and cut a trace (detailed instructions
> below)
>
> Disclaimer: I am not a Yaesu service technician. The modification
> described below was shown to me at the 1997 Fresno DX
> Convention by "Winston" of Yaesu service, but NO ONE AT
> YAESU HAS REVIEWED THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
>
> If you mess up your radio attempting to install this
> modification yourself, do not blame me or anyone at Yaesu.
> All responsibility lies solely with you.
>
> If in doubt, send your rig to Yaesu.
>
> The good news: I installed this mod on two FT-1000MPs, and it worked
fine.
> I have not noticed any unwanted side-effects.
>
> What you need: 1. Good eyesight
> 2. Steady hands
> 3. A small soldering iron, and experience using it
> 4. About 6 inches (15 cm) of No. 24 or 26 AWG insulated
wire
> 5. Metal tweezers or forceps
> 6. A small knife with a sharp tip for cutting one trace
>
> If you do not have ALL of the above, you should not proceed any further.
>
> The wire size is critical. Anything larger will not fit into the tiny
holes
> in the circuit board. Radio Shack stocks only ONE kind of wire this
small:
> Cat. No. 278-857, 2-conductor "Rainbow Wire." Only one conductor is used;
I
> unzipped the tiny "zip cord" to get the length I needed. If you have No.
26
> insulated wire around, use it instead.
>
> Detailed Instructions Follow (print with fixed-pitch font, such as
Courier)
>
> 1. Remove top cover
>
> 2. Remove bottom cover
>
> 3. Orient the radio so that unit is upside down (bottom side up), and
> the rear of the radio is nearest to you. The circuit board that will
> be modified is the "AF Unit," which is in the lower left corner.
> It has a shiny shielded metal box in the middle.
>
> FT-1000MP
> Bottom View
>
> Front
> +===============================+
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | _________ |
> || AF | |
> || Unit | |
> ||_________| |
> +===============================+
> Rear
>
>
> 4. Locate diode D3023 in the lower left corner of the AF Unit, about
> 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the left and 1 inch from the rear. Just below it
> (nearer to the rear) is a small trace that runs right to left,
> terminating
> in a small solder "island." The trace is completely surrounded by a
wide
> metal trace. The island has a small "through-hole" in the center that
is
> filled with solder, but has no visible components. The island is
> completely
> "in the clear." Do not confuse this with the island immediately
> UNDERNEATH
> D3023.
>
>
> AF Unit (lower left corner)
>
> |
> |
> | D3023
> | -==-
> | wide metal
> | area |
> | |
> | /--------------/
> | ( ()============ <--- Narrow trace terminating in solder island
> | \--------------\ Jumper will be soldered to this island and
> | | trace will be cut
> | wide metal |
> | area
> |
> |_____________________________
>
>
> 5. Locate trim-pot (variable resistor) VR3011, labeled "AM", near the top
> left center of the AF Unit. It is white, square, and clearly labeled,
> and "in the clear"
>
>
> AF Unit (top left center)
> ______________________________________
> |
> | VR3011
> | +----+
> | | |
> | +----+ <--- jumper will be soldered to this
leg
> | AM
> |
> |
> |
> |
>
> 6. Cut a length of No. 24 or No. 26 insulated wire long enough to reach
from
> the solder island near D3023 to the lower right corner of VR3011.
Strip
> 3/16 inch (5 mm) of insulation from each end.
>
> 7. Important: Tin both ends with solder. You just want a thin coat -- no
> "blobs"
>
> 8. This is the hardest step. If you can get through this, the rest is
easy.
>
> Point the tip of the wire into the center of the solder island using
> tweezers or forceps. Heat the WIRE with a soldering iron until it
melts
> the solder in the through-hole, then push the hot wire into the hole
and
> let
> it cool.
>
> When soldering, be careful not to touch other wires with the soldering
> iron.
> Do not push too much bare wire into the hole, just enough to make a
good
> connection to the through-hole.
>
> It may be helpful to pull back a little more insulation before
soldering,
> then push the insulation back down after soldering.
>
> Make sure there are no solder blobs shorting to the surrounding traces.
>
> 9. Tin the lower right leg of VR3011 with a little solder, then solder the
> other end of the jumper wire to this leg. Do not use too much heat.
>
> 10. Using the tip of a sharp knife, gently cut the small trace leading to
> the
> solder island as shown below. You do not have to cut too deep, but
> be sure the cut is wide enough and that there are no shorts to
> surrounding
> traces:
>
> AF Unit (lower left corner)
>
> |
> |
> | D3023
> | -==-
> | wide metal
> | area |
> | |
> | /--------------/
> | ( ()=====\ \==== <--- Cut trace as shown
> | \--------------\
> | |
> | wide metal |
> | area
> |
> |_____________________________
>
> 11. Re-install bottom cover and top cover
>
> 12. Turn on the radio and verify that the RF PWR knob now controls output
> power smoothly, both with and without the speech processor active.
>
> Good luck everyone.
>
> 73,
> Bob Wilson, N6TV
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ON4VP" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 00:32
> Subject: [1000mp] Power ok - unknown mods
>
>
> > Sorry, the link is www.2die4.be/ft1000/modpics.htm
> > 73
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info, I have the power adjusted to 100 watt now
(14.200).
> > > I checked all band (differs from 94 to 103).
> > >
> > > When working on this, I discovered three components added on a
> printboard.
> > > The printboard sits on the side of the housing (has the cw connector
> from
> > > the back)
> > >
> > > 1 capasitor is soldered
> > > 1 resistor is soldered
> > > 1 green small lead is soldered
> > >
> > > I like to know either this is standard, a modification known among
> > ft1000mp
> > > owners or even a mod done only b the previous owner. I made some
> picture,
> > > can I attach them in a mail to this reflector or not ?
> > > I have put them on my website at www.2die.be/ft1000/modpics.htm
> > >
> > > Hope someone can tell ?
> > >
> > > 73, Philippe
> > > ON4VP
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
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